Ralph Lane and the Lost Colony

Several months ago, I was asked to write an article featuring Christmas in Edenton, NC. If you haven't been there, Edenton is located off the Albemarle Sound near the Chowan River and it's quite the charming little town, especially during the holidays. I knew it was historical, but I did not know to what extent until I began researching its history.

When I began my research, I set out to make a connection between Edenton and Edward Bland's journey into "South Virginia" in 1650 to trade with the natives and to investigate reports of Englishmen living among them. I'd read the account of the expedition in "The Discover of New Brittaine", which is online and also included in Narratives of Early Carolina 1650-1708. As it turned out, Bland and his group did not travel as far down as present-day Edenton, but in my research, I learned Ralph Lane, governor of Sir Walter Raleigh's second expedition, which landed on Roanoke Island in 1585, created a connection between English explorers and the hamlet on the sound when he visited the Weapemeoc (aka Yeopim) natives there. Finally, I had my connection.

But I was intrigued when my research also showed relations with the natives quickly deteriorated under Lane's leadership. Months later, he left a far more hostile world than what he had found. The following year, Walter Raleigh's third and last attempt to colonize the New World arrived at the same location.

Sadly, the magazine folded before the Edenton story could go to print, but below, I posted what was intended to be a sidebar item featuring my take on the Lost Colony and what may have led to its demise.

UPDATE: I've learned much since I first published this post, and the facts are far more fascinating and complex than I had realized. Click here for a link to the updated post.

Did Sir Walter Raleigh’s Second Expedition Set the Third Up for Failure?

Sir Walter Raleigh’s second expedition to the New World was a military endeavor. With Ralph Lane serving as governor, the group settled on Roanoke Island, which Philip Amadas and Arthur Barlowe had explored the previous year during a scouting mission funded by Raleigh.

In the months after Lane's group settled on Roanoke, conflict arose between the settlers and the natives. To quell the threat he helped create, Lane imprisoned Menatonon, king of Chawanook--also known as Chowanoke and Chowan--despite the fact that “(Chawanook) it selfe is the greatest Province of the region." He later released Menatonon for ransom, but kept the king’s son.

Hostilities continued. Then, as Lane reports, “Ensenore…being the onely friend to our nation that we had amongst them….died the 20 of April 1586.”

Having lost his strong and sole supporter, Lane and his group found themselves starving and in danger of attack. When a clash between one of Lane’s men and two natives resulted in the natives’ death, “(they) tooke themselves to their bowes, and we to our armes: some three or foure of them at the first were slaine with our shot.”

Another skirmish ensured, ending in more deaths. Days later, while Lane’s group was on high alert, Sir Frances Drake arrived and offered to resupply the colony. Lane instead opted to travel back to England, leaving behind him blood and bitter memories of European settlers.

The following year, Raleigh’s third expedition (and his second attempt to colonize the New World), led by John White, settled on Roanoke Island. White eventually traveled back to England for supplies, and the remaining colonists, including the first English child born in the New World, was never seen again. Victims, perhaps, of foolish choices regarding natives already hostile after their first encounter with Englishmen.

Glimpses of the Past

If you're interested in learning more about early North Carolina, several explorers have written detailed and often engaging accounts of their journeys through the Carolinas and America's "Cradle of the Colonies." Journals include:

A New Voyage to Carolina, John Lawson, 1709
"A Discovery of New Brittaine", Edward Bland, 1650 (Available Online)
"A Relation of a Discovery", William Hilton, 1664 (Available Online)
Natural History of North Carolina, John Brickell, 1737
Cradle of the Colony by Dr. Thomas Parramore

Snow Day!

After numerous forecasts that threatened anywhere from one to twelve inches of precipitation, eastern North Carolina and parts of South Carolina received what area children (and a few adults) have longed to see: snow!

My northern friends took great joy in chiding me for making a fuss about such a small amount of snow, but when you only see it every few years, it's a very welcome visitor.

Cliffs of the Neuse

A sunny day with a seventy-percent chance it would stay that way, so we traveled to Cliffs of the Neuse State Park (click here to read my original post on this NC destination) where we once again hiked the moderate Spanish Moss Trail. Eastern North Carolina is just waking from her dormancy, so we found only violets and an abundance of Carolina Jasmine in bloom.

And a tree putting on a spring show:

All photos copyright 2012 K Buffaloe

At the time of this writing, the lake was closed for swimming. For information on seasons and times, call the park office or check the website at www.ncparks.gov

Swanquarter National Wildlife Refuge

During a recent trip to Lake Mattamuskeet to check out the waterfowl population, we finally happened on the entrance to Swanquarter National Wildlife Refuge. I first read about the 15,500+ acre refuge in The Natural Traveler, and tried to locate it during last year's excursion to the pocosin lakes. As it turns out, we passed it on numerous occasions.

Located off Hwy 264 between Rose Bay and Swan Quarter, the dusty, two-mile road extending from the highway ends at the Bell Island Pier, where a few of the locals cast their lines while birds keep an eye on their catch. As I discovered from the book and subsequent research, what's visible from the road and pier are all visitors can see from land. The rest of the refuge can only be viewed by boat. When they say refuge, they mean it.

At the end of the road, from left to right:

As with Pungo and Mattamuskeet, we plan on returning to Swanquarter in winter to see migrating waterfowl. But to view the birds resting on the obscured marsh, our best bet is to take the Swan Quarter-Ocracoke ferry (note: fees apply. Check the ferry schedule before traveling.)

For more information on Swanquarter, go to

www.hydecounty.org/attractions/SwanQuarterNWR.htm

To find the entrance on a map, click here or plug the coordinates 35.448679, -76.367909 in Google Maps or Google Earth.

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Copyright 2009. All Rights Reserved. Do not use or distribute.

White Pines: Hiking Conservancy Trails

Members of the ENC branch of CarolinasAdventures recently tackled another Triangle Land Conservancy project: White Pines Preserve, located south of Pittsboro and north of Sanford. Just off Hwy 15-501, White Pines is a secluded forest edging the confluence of the Rocky and Deep Rivers.

Named for the trees growing throughout, White Pines is a great place for day hiking and birding. Seven trails cut through the forest and down into the river plain, and we hiked them all in just a couple hours. It was past bloom season, so few flowers were on hand to greet us, but we enjoyed the outing nonetheless.

It's summer in ENC and ticks, chiggers, poison ivy, and snakes abound. We encountered all at White Pines, so we decided to put off future visits until March, when the flowers are in bloom and the bugs are in hiding.

For more information on White Pines, go to
http://www.triangleland.org/lands/tlc/white_pines_np.shtml

Flower Hill: Hiking Conservancy Trails

When we're in the mountains, we head to Pisgah National Forest or spots along the Blue Ridge Parkway for a hike. Here in eastern NC, we head to Croatan National Forest or any state park. But KT, the co-moderator of CarolinasAdventures, recently reminded us we're missing overlooked gold mines throughout the state: trails located in lands belonging to nature conservancies.

I'm just getting introduced to these organizations, so I can't go into great detail about them. I do know nature conservancies do what their name implies, and they do so by acquiring land. Last year, we purchased A Guide to Nature Conservancy Projects in North Carolina, and we sometimes refer to that book for outing ideas. However, KT informed us regional conservancies exist as well by recommending one of Triangle Land Conservancy's projects, Flower Hill.

Unaware a newly constructed parking lot sits beside the trailhead, we parked alongside the road and trudged through the woods, up one of the few rolling hills in the coastal plain.

The hike through Flower Hill is short, but we managed to make it longer with frequent stops to examine a variety of plant life along the predominantly dirt path. KT had hoped to show us a forest blooming with Catawba rhododendron—the reason TLC purchased the land—but we missed the peak—bloom season. The blossoms we spotted were enough, though, since this species usually grows in or near the mountains.  

UPDATE (April 2011)

Spring rolled around, and a member of CA reported sighting of rhodos at Flower Hill. Naturally, we jumped in the car and headed up the road. And what a sight we saw. I took pictures from several angles, but still couldn't capture the number of blooms growing along the slope. Here, in eastern North Carolina.

Morehead City, NC

We recently went down east (which may actually be part of Downeast, I'm still working that out) to Morehead City. We've passed through the city on numerous occasions in the past. Fleeting impressions gleaned from the car as we traveled to Beaufort or other places along the Crystal Coast told me it seemed like a nice place. Clean, modern, a port city with massive boat facilities, it looked interesting, so of course we had to check it out.

I brought along The Natural Traveler and Coastal North Carolina, both of which usually provide some direction about activities at a destination. Well...not this time. I learned a bit about the history (Union Forces occupied the city after Fort Macon fell) but that was about it.

So it may surprise you to learn we had a nice time.

We decided to start with lunch. Our thinking, beyond filling our stomachs, was that we'd double check the books and chat with anyone willing to talk about the town while we tasted local fare. We do this often, and to a great degree, the folks are friendly and more than willing to chat.

On the recommendation of The Natural Traveler, we chose the Sanitary Fish Market and Restaurant. The sign for this establishment is visible from the road, and in the past, we snickered at the name as we drove by. But the book used the phrases "clean", "fame", and "seafood", so we went.

I have to warn you, I accidentally left our camera at home, so I had to take pictures with my cell phone.

Opened in 1938, the restaurant sits on the waterfront overlooking Bogue Sound (if I'm reading it correctly, my Gazetteer indicates it's Money Island Bay.) Bits of framed history paper the walls, and we took in what we could as we followed the hostess over the glistening planked floor to a seat beside the window. Yes!

As the book indicated we would, we enjoyed a good meal for a good price, though because I can't eat fried foods, I ordered grilled chicken. Either the owner reads this blog and recognized us, or he firmly believes in providing customers with a quality experience--I believe the latter--because he stated such in a conversation we overheard.

You can bet we'll stop here more often.

Like most things in Morehead City, the restaurant overlooks the water. One can view it while dining, or while strolling along the boardwalk we spotted behind the eatery:

As I've mentioned in the past, it's often difficult to get a pulse on the local culture during an initial scouting trip. As I once told NC native and poet, Julie Buffaloe Yoder, until we're familiar with an area, I can "get the basic recipe, but I lack the secret ingredients that make the dish savory". Julie's poetry gives me a deep, vivid look into the soul of many Downeasterners, so I turned to another native skilled with a pen for insight into Morehead City. After sharing a bit about the history, Sarah Salter told me:

The Morehead culture is one of hard work, dedication, deep love and loyalty. Those folks are the salt of the earth. Literally. They have salt water in their veins. A lot of that is reflected in their language, their laughter, and their zest for life.

She went on to tell of the transformation from a predominantly fishing village, to one heavily reliant on tourism. No surprise there, since the entire NC coast is a favorite tourist destination. Nevertheless, fish and water are still the lifeblood of this town. In addition to serving as a state port, sport fishing and boating are popular activities. Their annual seafood festival is quite popular, and along the paved waterfront is a marina where one can charter a boat to fish or take a day cruise:

The waterfront also has a nice selection of shops, including at least one bookstore. If you haven't noticed, we love bookstores. Local shops are the best because they tend to carry regional books not available at chain stores; items one wouldn't know existed to search for on Amazon. I've picked up half a bookshelf worth of publications during our trips, and on this outing, I found Island Born and Bred: A Collection of Harkers Island Food, Fun, Fact and Fiction. I may toss the recipes (I so don't cook) but I'll definitely keep the pages of hand drawn maps, recollections, poems, and information provided by Harkers Island Natives. I'd love to quote a few lines from a page I randomly chose while typing this, but I best get permission first. No sense being a copyright hound only to break the law myself.

In short, Morehead City is a great place to stop if you're in, or passing through the area, especially since it's conveniently located near Bogue Banks and Beaufort. We'll definitely go back to check out that half-day cruise. We've yet to explore the Carolina waterways, and it's time to rectify that mistake. And if my husband can find the tangle of fishing poles I stored somewhere so we can do some decent fishing, we'll run down to Morehead City to see what options are available there.

Until then, for more information on Morehead City, go to www.downtownmoreheadcity.com/

For more information on the good restaurant with the funny name, go to www.sanitaryfishmarket.com/

Cape Fear Botanical Gardens: A Reminder

A member of my hiking group reminded us April is free admission month at Cape Fear Botanical Gardens.

To read my report on this Fayetteville, NC attraction, and to access photos and links, go to

http://carolinatrails.blogspot.com/2008/04/coming-up.html

Sylvan Heights: A Groundbreaking Experience

Last week, we traveled to Sylvan Heights Waterfowl Park to find a few wood ducks. We first visited this overlooked jewel last year after reading about it in Wildlife in North Carolina magazine. That trip was both pleasant and informative, and because of it, we expected to spent our day strolling around the shady forest-park, looking at ducks that couldn't fly away when we tried to photograph them. We got that and more.

To our surprise, one of the employees recognized us from our previous visit. I remembered her, too, because she spent time with several visitors, providing excellent information on many of the species living at Sylvan Heights, as well as on the park itself. After chatting for a few minutes, she invited us to a groundbreaking that would take place on the premises that afternoon.

As we soon discovered, the groundbreaking was for a ground breaking expansion. Sylvan Heights is building an accessible treehouse so that those with physical impairments may enjoy the park and its residents. Funded in part by several organizations both mentioned and represented at the event, the octagon-shaped "Bird's Nest" will overlook three levels of wetlands to be restored in the woods behind existing exhibits.

Wetlands restoration? Handicap-accessible facilities? Those in addition to working to save waterfowl? We were honored to witness the event:

The grand opening should be held this summer. We hope to be there for it.

Sylvan Heights is located in Scotland Neck, NC, approximately eighteen miles from historic Halifax. To keep up-to-date on the opening and other events at Sylvan Heights, visit their new blog at http://sylvanheightsblog.blogspot.com/

A delightful visit. But we didn't expect anything less.

If you missed the link to our first post, including photos, on Sylvan Heights, click here.

Raven Rock State Park, NC

I live a couple degrees east of North Carolina's Piedmont. Here, waters are black, the land, flat and sandy, and rock outcroppings extinct. Yet, gently rolling hills and an abundance of layered rock and all that entails exists within an hour's drive. Why?

From our visit to Medoc Mountain SP, I learned NC has a "Fall Zone". An area where the hard ground of the Piedmont meets the soft ground of the coastal plain. The eroding of that soft soil around rock formed Medoc Mountain. It also provided members of the CarolinasAdventurers hiking group with some nifty views on our recent outing.

For those living on the eastern edge of the Piedmont, Raven Rock State Park is conveniently located in the little town of Lillington, NC: north of Fayetteville and south of Raleigh. A number of hiking and bridle trails twist around the leafy 4,684 acre park, which is cut in half by the mighty Cape Fear River. That alone would have enticed me had I known about it in advance. As it was, hiking with good company was all the reason we needed to accept the invitation.

We rendezvoused in the parking lot at Raven Rock to begin what was supposed to be the first hike of the day. Our leader chose the Campbell Creek Loop Trail. Not because, at times, it borders the creek, which would have offered some nice views, but because it would lead us to Lanier Falls on the Cape Fear.

Though flowers aren't in abundance at the moment, what we did spot encouraged us to stop often. The first find of the day was a tiny Lady Tresses orchid. Other finds included Beauty Berries, St. John's Wort, sweet smelling Clematis, seed pods of fading Crane Fly orchids, New York and Cinnamon ferns, wild Muscadine grapes, and the largest variety of fungus I've ever seen, in colors ranging from red to purple.

Plant life wasn't the only thing that caught and kept our attention. We also saw two species of lizards, at least three species of frogs and toads, and one snake, which I didn't know about until after the fact. We also spent a fair amount of time examining rocks, both the quartz, mica, and others types strewn along the trail, and the large layered rocks that formed small caves alongside the creek.

In case you're wondering, there really is a rock called Raven Rock, but it's located where the Raven Rock Loop Trail meets the Cape Fear. That's another trip for another time. Fortunately.

A little more than two and a half miles into the loop, we reached the quarter-mile connector to Lanier Falls. If you're thinking a thirty to fifty foot sheet of water falling into a clear pool, erase that image from your mind. This is more along the lines of what another group member called a shoal--a sandbank or sandbar that makes the water shallow, so says Webster. In this case, a ridge of rocks that stretched across the Cape Fear River.



It may not be a Thompson Falls or a Looking Glass like one would find in western North Carolina, but the sound of rushing water and the sight of those foamy cascades brought a lot of joy to these flatlanders' hearts.

We ate lunch at the falls, though it was difficult considering the number of visitors milling around the small clearing--the only access to the falls in that area. Afterward, we followed Campbell Creek for the return trip, past a forest floor of pine straw in some places, delicate Cinnamon ferns in others. The Cape Fear River is a brownwater system, meaning its headwaters are in the Piedmont or the Blue Ridge Mountains*. The creek is also brownwater, and though muddy where it meets the Cape Fear, portions of the shallow stream along the trail were so clear, we could see pebbles and fish on the sandy bottom.


Nearly six hours after leaving the parking lot, we arrived at our cars and immediately began to store our equipment. What? Pass up on the chance to hike another trail? The humidity was high that day, and after a five and a half mile hike, I didn't have the fortitude to go on despite the fact I drank one bottle of water and one of Gatorade. It just wasn't enough. But we'll return. Raven Rock has several trails we still need to explore.

If you're not in the mood for a hike, try camping, canoeing, horseback riding, picnicking or fishing. Raven Rock has it all.

*CLASSIFICATION OF THE NATURAL COMMUNITIES OF NORTH CAROLINA, pg 140

Sylvan Heights Waterfowl Park, Scotland Neck

"Where should we go today?"

One wouldn't expect the answer to be a waterfowl park, but if you live in eastern North Carolina, it should be.

My husband and I recently had the privilege of visiting the renowned Sylvan Heights Waterfowl Park in Scotland Neck, NC. I learned about Sylvan Heights from an article in the May 2008 issue of Wildlife in North Carolina magazine. I thought about visiting at that time, but a quick glance at an atlas led me to believe Scotland Neck was too far off the beaten path to bother with given today's gas prices. As it turns out, it's only eighteen miles from Halifax, located just off I-95 (south of Roanoke Rapids) and less than two hours from Goldsboro.

The Wildlife article did a wonderful job detailing the work Sylvan Heights owners, Mike and Ali Lubbock, are accomplishing. After seeing the place in person, I'm not sure it did justice to the park itself. The waterfowls reside on six "continents", conveniently situation near one another on a gently rolling hill. Visitors travel to each continent on wide, often shady gravel paths. Gates surround each area, and mesh forms a canopy above, preventing escapes. Visitors can walk through the gates and spent time watching, photographing, or feeding the birds before heading to the next continent. Traveling has never been easier.

Note: Duck food is available for a nominal fee at the Visitors Center. When feeding the birds, it's best to toss the nuggets to them. Some bite. If you're wearing sandals, beware! Besides the fact tiny bits of gravel from the path can slip in your sandal as you walk, toes can be mistaken for goodies. One Hawaiian Goose thought my stubby little toes were duck food! The pain was minimal, but my husband had a good chuckle over it.

Sylvan Heights didn't just happen, and the agrarian landscape of eastern NC isn't a spot one would expect to find a preservation effort of this nature and magnitude. The Lubbocks worked hard to create this sanctuary, and their passion is infectious. We had several discussions with Sylvan Heights employees during our visit, and their dedication to the over 2,000 birds (170 different species) at the park is evident. "A pure joy," one employee told several visitors. "I never get tired of it."

And it's in eastern North Carolina.

Admission is $7.00 per adult, $5.00 for children ages 3-12. Check their website for various school programs and discounts. We went on Teacher Appreciation Day. Next up--a special day for children of military members (go Sylvan.) They have an annual membership as well. In addition to unlimited admission to the park for the paid year, the membership fee includes two passes to the North Carolina Zoo.

Other great things about Sylvan: They have a yearly photo contest. Visitors, keep an eye on their website and submit your best waterfowl photo! They're also fixin to hold a photography workshop.

Waynesborough Park, Goldsboro

Or more accurately, Waynesborough Historical Village. I'll stick with "park" for this report.

My husband and I finally found Waynesborough Park after several failed attempts to locate it. With an address like 801 Hwy US 117 Bypass South, one can understand our confusion. To make matters worse, the unadorned entrance is just south of a conglomeration of intersections that still confuses me though we've lived in the area for almost a year.

The entrance to Waynesborough leads to a parking lot surrounded by the Visitor's Center (stop in and sign the guestbook before you inspect the display cases filled with artifacts!), the General Store and several other small buildings that form the "village". We went inside the Wiggins House and the Bethany Friends (Quaker) Meeting House. After inspecting hatched snake eggs (ewww) laying nearby, we walked down the trail, over the creek and past the old hay barn to a large field where one can camp or picnic. There should be restrooms in the area, but we didn't search for them. There's also a water fountain.

The park has about three miles of hiking trails. One leads to the boat landing floating in the Neuse. One of the trails is part of the Mountain to the Sea trail system. It was hot the day we happened on the park, and dressed in jeans and a black shirt, I wasn't about to go hiking. We'll return later. 

Medoc Mountain State Park

Medoc Mountain State Park is located northeast of Raleigh, just south of Roanoke Rapids and the Virginia border. It's named after the Medoc Vineyards, once located in the area. The park has seven trails, ranging from .5 miles (Air Awareness) to 3 miles (Bluff Loop, and the Summit Loop, which we hiked.) To reach the Summit Loop from the Visitor's Center, hikers must walk up the road a short way to the Bear Swamp Trailhead, which then intersects with the Dam Trail, which leads to the Summit trail.

The brochure states the level of difficulty of the Summit Trail is easy to moderate. We call it easy, but we recognize the hazards of hand size granite and quartz rocks littering the trail in some sections. Tree roots snake into the pathway in other areas. It's steep in at least three places, but no more than steps in a two-story home. The remainder of the pathway is fairly level, though it does grade upwards at times.

The forest is mostly deciduous, but with patches of pine. Consequently, we saw a forest floor consisting of leafy green plants in some areas and pine straw in others. We also saw tall ferns, creeping cedar, and one set of Lady Slipper leaves. We crossed bridges over creeks--no rock hopping on this trail. On one side of the loop, the trail winds through the forest. On the other side, it skirts Little Fishing Creek, where the sound of a bubbling cascades blocked by trees taunted us.

Unlike the coastal plain, the water in this area is brown. Water that flows from the mountain and piedmont is brown because of sediment and vegetation, unlike the acidic blackwaters of the coastal plain, which is stained by the leaves of cypress trees.

We didn't encounter other hikers along the trail, but we did see a lot of critters including lizards, toads, and a turtle. No snakes. No skeeters, either, but several tiny, red ticks did attempt to hitchhike on us. On subsequent hikes, we took home leg fulls of chiggers. The only sounds we heard were a few birds chirping, wind blowing through the canopy above us, an occasional woodpecker, and a group of kids on another trail. Several times during the hike Kelley reported smelling something sweet. Honeysuckle was the cause on one occasion. A bush-like tree with tiny bells, another. The big surprise of the day was mountain laurel growing on the slopes along the trail.

While at the Visitor's Center, we learned Medoc Mountain isn't actually a mountain. It's a ridge a) caused by a giant granite rock apparently pushed up by lava, or b) the core of a mountain ridge left over by erosion(1). According to the USGS's Volcano Observatory:

(Medoc Mountain State Park) sits near the fall line, an area where the hard, resistant rocks of the foothills give way to the softer rocks and sediments of the coastal plain.(1)

Erosion then washed away the terrain surrounding the rock that now remains.

Hike duration from the time we left our car until we returned was two hours and thirty-five minutes. Overall a great day on a trail that made me feel like I was back in the mountains.

 

For more information on Medoc Mountain State Park, go to ncparks.gov/Visit/parks/memo/main.php

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1. vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/LivingWith/VolcanicPast/Places/volcanic_past_north_carolina.html

Clark Park, Fayetteville, NC

Rising temperatures and spring blossoms are luring you to the great outdoors, but rising gas prices and half-filled tanks are keeping you close to home. How can you combat cabin fever while protecting your wallet? If you live in or near Fayetteville, North Carolina, you have more options than you may realize.

I recently discussed the relaxing beauty of Fayetteville's Cape Fear Botanical Gardens, a pleasant, inexpensive place to spend a morning or afternoon. If you're not in the mood to tiptoe through the tulips, a ten-minute drive will take you to J. Bayard Clark Park, a seventy-six acre woodland situated on the edge of the Cape Fear River. Where the Botanical Garden speaks stately grooming, Clark Park shouts the primal call of the cityfied day-hiker craving a walk in the woods. The root-studded Interpretive Bear Trail begins at the park's Nature Center and snakes through pine and hardwood trees and past eastern North Carolina's largest waterfall.

Say that again? Yes, a waterfall!


But don't tarry at the falls too long. Clark Park has three nature trails, including a wetlands trail, and a variety of flowers and plants to see.

If you're looking for something less rugged, walk across the parking lot and hop on the northern branch of the Cape Fear River Trail. Walk, hike, bike, or jog the ten-foot wide paved pathway. But beware, some sections are steep! Keep track of time as you're enjoying the sunshine. With picturesque views of the river, wildflowers, and white fences bordering pathways and bridges, you may walk further down the four-mile path than you intended.

Like Cape Fear Botanical Gardens, Clark Park provides educational opportunities for their visitors. According to their website and brochures, the Nature Center contains several wildlife displays. They also offer a Nature Tote filled with instructional books and games aimed at pre-k to fourth graders. Along with school outreach programs, the park holds fun events throughout the year including a Pontoon Boat Ride down the Cape Fear, a Creatures of the Night class and, if you're fond of creepy eight-legged insects, a Spider Safari.

Admission to Clark Park and the Cape Fear River Trail is free. If they don't suit your taste, there's more to chose from. The Botanical Gardens and Clark Park are just two of the outdoor destinations Fayetteville has to offer, and most are within city limits. Check www.fayettevillenc.net/sites.htm for more options.

Clark Park is located on Sherman Street, off Ramsey (Hwy 401). The park is open Monday through Saturday from 8 AM to 5 PM. For more information, call (910) 433-1579 or go online at www.fcpr.us.

Cape Fear Botanical Gardens, Fayetteville, NC

If you live in or near Fayetteville and need a place to unwind, read on.

Known primarily as the home of Fort Bragg and Pope Air Force Base, Fayetteville also plays host to outdoor destinations often overshadowed by attractions along the Outer Banks.

Cape Fear Botanical Garden, located northeast of downtown Fayetteville falls in the overlooked or, "Eh, I'll go there someday" categories. Named for the Cape Fear River adjacent to the park's border, this eighty-five acre botanical haven displays over 2000 varieties of plants along paved and natural trails that wind past a pond and two signature gardens, and through a mixed pine forest. Wide, grassy lawns and foliage-lined pathways provide a sense of order throughout the park, making it the perfect destination for events ranging from weddings, half-day family, group, or couple outings, or a lunchtime stroll to ward off stress.

Have kids? No problem. In addition to conveniently located restrooms and walkways wide enough to accommodate strollers, Cape Fear Botanical Gardens offers two attractive gardens designed for the little ones. Walk the Mary McLaurin Camellia trail to the Friendship Garden and Lilliput Labyrinth, then stroll to the Bog Garden for a picnic. Visit the Gazebo for a quick photo-op, then head to the Heritage Garden and the 1886 restored farmhouse for a glimpse of life in the 19th century.

Worried about the cost? Don't. Admission is only $5 for adults, $4 for individuals with a military ID, and free for children under the age of twelve. Still too tight for your budget? The park offers free admission on the first Saturday of each month and during the entire month of April.

That's right. Free.

While Cape Fear Botanical Gardens takes pride in their appearance, education has a role in their overall mission. For a small fee, the park offers workshops such as Macro flower photography and gardening for the adults, and a variety of programs for the kids, including the Nature Tales story and craft time (during free admission Saturday. Reservations required. Check the park's website and calendar for more details.) They also provide guided tours and school outreach programs. The only thing missing is a concession stand, so pack a snack if you anticipate the need for food.

The Last Major Offensive

"The most terrible battle I ever imagined . . . . It was the most fearful scene I ever witnessed."1

"that day, which opened so calmly and beautifully, was to be a day of battle and death."2

Draped in London Fog to protect myself from the elements, I walked across the gravel drive of the Visitors Center toward the cemetery in silence, head hung low against the forty mile an hour winds slowing my advance. I watched my feet as they trod soundless in the howl, and allowed images to scroll through my mind.

It had been overcast at the end, I decided, and like today, the grass and pine straw would have been wet from recent rains that turned nearby creeks and rivers into angry torrents. Confederate escape routes. The flat, sandy field now before me had been torn apart by feet, cannons, horses, bullets. Men, thousands of them, using hastily formed trenches and gangly longleaf pines as shields, wiped sweat and dirt from gaunt faces as they tried to spy strangers through the smoke. Enemies. Monsters who had killed, burned, raped, destroyed and who brought on them a battle that should have been fought only at the gates of hell. Not in Bentonville, North Carolina.

But hell was upon them. And on March 19, 1865, in a small farming village surrounded by pine trees and fields, 20,000 war-ravaged confederate soldiers positioned themselves between General Ulysses S. Grant, waiting in Virginia, and an insurmountable force more than twice their numbers—one wing of General William T. Sherman's 60,000 men—in what became what park literature calls "the final decisive battle" of the War Between the States.

The fighting would rage for three days.

I glanced behind me, past my husband who stood outside the drab Visitors Center, to the white, two-story home that had once belonged to Bentonville residents, John and Amy Harper. It's a handsome home, with white clapboard siding, green shutters, and an inviting porch shaded by a tall portico. Like dozens of other homes along this stretch of NC 1008, it sits peacefully, just miles from where we had lived when we moved to North Carolina. When the wounded began to fall in the hours after the offense began, Federal commanders requested the use of the home as a medical facility. Knowing the enemy would take it anyway, John Harper agreed, resulting in Union officers permitting the Harpers to occupy the upper floor of the house. There, in four rooms, ten members of the family lived while blood flowed on their floorboards below—seeing, smelling, hearing a battle of another kind as doctors tossed bloody amputated arms and legs through the window and onto the ground in the sight of the hundreds of wounded who lay on the front yard awaiting medical treatment.

A tall, disfigured tree stands nearby in the neatly trimmed yard, watching, as it had in those days. The sole witness to General Johnston's futile attempt to break Sherman's army. The last to stand when Johnston retreated in the face of the unbeatable foe. So old its branches twist like arthritic fingers, did this sentinel see the arrival of Sherman's remaining wing? If so, it witnessed the end of the offensive and, essentially, the War Between the States.

Over 4,200 men died.

My husband reached my side and together, we walked across the sandy field. Other than the house, its kitchen and remaining slave quarters, the only remnants of the skirmishes fought here are the Union trench works, and the bullets, belt buckles, and other artifacts on display in the Visitors Center. Several eye-catching monuments placed near the Harper family cemetery mark the spot where 360 confederate soldiers sleep in a mass grave. Those testaments, reenactments held every few years, and the park's guides are all that's left to tell the story of the Gettysburg-like fury once fought on these now obscure lands.

Until those struck by the forgotten history of this small town come along.

Bentonville Battlefield is one of twenty-nine stops on the Battlefield of Bentonville tour, which travels from the Harper House, across NC 1008, up Bentonville Road, and down Devil's Racetrack Road. Bentonville Battlefield is located at 5466 Harper House Road in Four Oaks.



1. (www.ah.dcr.state.nc.us/sections/hs/bentonvi/chronol.htm)

2. McClurg, Alexander C., The Last Chance of the Confederacy. The Atlantic Monthly, vol. 50, issue 299 (September 1882)--(footnote from Cornell University Library at cdl.library.cornell.edu/moa/browse.author/m.83.html)

Howell Woods Environmental Learning Center

Howell Woods Environmental Learning Center:
A CarolinasAdventures Learning Experience


East coast members of the CarolinasAdventures hiking group banded together for their first official group hike last weekend. Our destination: Howell Woods Learning Center in Johnston County, NC. An apt name for this obscure treasure, and I couldn't have chosen a more knowledgeable (and amiable) group of people to experience it with.

According to their website and various brochures, Howell Woods is part of Johnston County Community College, which uses the 2,800 plus acres as an outdoor classroom. Fortunately, the college graciously allows the public to use the land for hiking, camping, horseback riding (byoh), bird watching, and hunting. There is a fee for hunting, horseback riding, and camping, but hiking is free.

We rendezvoused at the Learning Center's parking lot shortly after 9:00 A.M. After signing in at the Center as required, we took a few photos of HW's permanent residents--a turkey vulture, an owl, and two red-tailed hawks that can no longer survive in the wild--and then began the hike.

The closest trailhead is located several yards behind the Learning Center, in the direction of the Savannah Pond. Using the trail map we found on the website, we hopped on the Leopold Loop and slowly worked our way into the woods.

Though a bit drab this time of year, sometimes desolate, and what I called "crunchy", Howell Woods is nonetheless fascinating. They have incredibly diverse habitats ranging from arid to soggy (longleaf pine savannah, bottomland hardwood, mixed pine, a variety of wetlands, and more.) We literally walked from a savannah to a cypress swamp, passing a grass and shrub area as we went. Even more incredible, their brochure not only lists the trails, the trail length, and the surface type, it also lists the dominant habitat in that area. Unfortunately, the brochure wasn't the best resource to use to navigate those trails. When we thought we were heading for one area, we ended up in another. One road should have been on one side of the woods, but somehow it intersected with a road in another quadrant. Consequently, we ended up meandering a lot. According to the brochure, there are over twenty-five miles of hiking trails and paved roads in Howell Woods, so we meandered quite a bit.

But we stopped often to explore as we went. We saw birds, large and small, flitting through the tall grasses of the savannah and through trees. Three turkey buzzards circling overhead caught our attention several times. As we hiked, our resident botanist, KT, pointed out various non-flowering plants and trees and encouraged us to identify them. He asked us questions about the habitat we were walking through and how we knew the type (i.e. a savannah or a mixed pine) without sneaking peeks at the brochure to find the answer. We stopped to take pictures of the first spotted wildflower of the season—a violet that should have been named Brittany for all the photos we snapped of it. We also took time to investigate a swamp with clear water, one with stagnant water, and a pond so still we wondered if the shocking shade of putrid green of what turned out to be duckweed hid ground or water.

Howell Woods also has a diverse wildlife population. We saw deer tracks on a number of occasions, tracks that may have belonged to a raccoon, and ruts we decided had been created by a few members of the feral pig population. Wild turkeys, gray squirrels, and waterfowl also reside in the woods. Because Howell Woods states their focus is "Conservation through Education", I was surprised to learn they allow hunting on the premises. I'm having a hard time understanding that, and how monies collected from hunting related activities can, as one brochure states, be "used to fund the ongoing operations benefiting the wildlife/habitat management...." Can someone clarify this for me? (Someone did. Please see comments below.)

The trail system at Howell Woods consists of gravel roads intertwining with boardwalk, sand, and mowed paths. The street signs at the corner of several trails reminded me of those at Dupont Forest in Brevard, where individuals and organizations wrenched back that land as it was being developed into an upscale neighborhood. While the signs do detract from the outdoor experience, they are helpful, especially when used in conjunction with the hybrid satellite photo/trail maps signs, which are posted at several intersections.

As mentioned earlier, we began the hike at the Leopold Loop. From there, we connected to Bartram Trail, Diversity Dr, Longleaf Ln, Wild Turkey Ln, and Hannah Creek Trail, which took us to the far edge of Howell Woods. Somewhere along the line, we stopped at a picnic area. From there, we hiked up Cornell to the BW Wells trail, and then attempted to turn up Thoreau, where a trail full of water hampered our progress.

Note: attempts to circumvent the watery path of Thoreau will result in bushwacking through what KT referred to as wicked prickles, the sting of which feels like thorns until one encounter the thorns. After several minutes of attempting to play the tough hiker, only to find more water and more prickles, we backtracked to BW Wells, and then took Plantation and Howell Dr to the Learning Center (which was, to our surprise, only three quarters of a mile away.)

If you plan to hike through Howell Woods, wear comfortable hiking shoes and pants to protect your legs from bugs and brambles. During bug season, wear a long sleeve shirt or take plenty of bug spray. On second thought, take plenty of bug spray period. Also, watch out for snakes. We encountered a long, grouchy black snake on one of the trails.

Howell Woods is an experience. And because of the sharing of knowledge by the participants on this hike, we not only received lessons in a variety of subjects such as plant life and habitats (pop quizzes and all), but the multiple observations too numerous to mention made by everyone throughout the four-hour hike enhanced this outing experience ten-fold. Don't know individuals familiar with birds, plants, or North Carolina's natural communities? No worries. Howell Woods offers several programs including Plant and Tree ID, Bird Banding, No-Trace Camping, and a course on habitats. For more information, check out their website at http://www.johnstoncc.edu/howellwoods/programs.htm

Howell Woods is located at 6601 Devil's Racetrack Rd in Four Oaks. From I-95, take Exit 90 and go south on 701. Turn left on Stricklands Crossroad, and then left on Devils Racetrack. For more information on Howell Woods, go to

www.johnstoncc.edu/howellwoods/about.htm and
www.johnstoncc.edu/howellwoods/HabitatDiversityTrailBrochure.pdf

Cliffs of the Neuse State Park--Goldsboro, NC

Cliffs of the Neuse is located about thirteen miles south of Goldsboro on Hwy 111, just west of Hwy 70 (which is the road between Goldsboro and New Bern.) The "cliff" that provides the park with its name was created when the fault line that runs along the Neuse River shifted, causing part of the earth to eventually drop about 90 feet. The resulting precipice provides a picturesque view of the Neuse River, and a stunning contrast to the flat lands in this region.

There are four trails at Cliffs of the Neuse: Bird Trail, Galax Trail, Spanish Moss Trail, and the aptly named 350-Yard Trail. Bird and Galax are to the right of the parking lot and trailhead, at the end of the gently sloping, sandy 350-Yard Trail that leads to the river's edge. Spanish Moss Trail branches off to the left of the trailhead. All the trails together add up to 1.7 miles.

Having taken the 350-Yard trail on a quick scouting expedition last year, we opted for the Spanish Moss trail on this trip. I absolutely love Spanish Moss, and miss seeing its tattered tails fluttering from the boughs of tall oaks in the Lowcountry breeze. Unfortunately, we saw only a handful of what is apparently a member of the pineapple family during our short hike.

Unlike the easygoing 350-Yard trail, the Spanish Moss trail descends to river level via a series of steep stairs built into the hillside. At this time of year, dead oak, maple and other leaves from deciduous trees litter those steps, hiding small indentations in the sand. I turned my ankle ever so slightly after taking one step, but caught myself on the wooden railing provided to assist hikers on their descent. As with all outdoor destinations, if you decide to visit the park, please watch out for hidden as well as exposed obstacles that may put a quick end to your fun and adventure.

According to the NC Parks site, Cliffs of the Neuse has approximately 750 acres within its boundaries. According to Classifications of Natural Communities in North Carolina, much of those acres are an example of a Mesic Mixed Hardwood Forest:

Mesic Mixed Hardwood Forests generally occur on sites that are sheltered by topography and moisture from fire. Fires were probably much less frequent and intense than in most of the Coastal Plain uplands. Fire was probably an important factor in confining mesic, fire-intolerant vegetation to these sites.
Associations: Usually bordered by Coastal Plain Bottomland Hardwoods, Cypress-- Gum Swamp, or Small Stream Swamp at slope base and Dry-Mesic Oak--Hickory Forest, Dry Oak--Hickory Forest, or Pine/Scrub Oak Sandhill above. May grade to Nonriverine Wet Hardwood Forest on flats. *

me·sic
Pronunciation: \me-zik\
: characterized by, relating to, or requiring a moderate amount of moisture**

Indeed, we did spot shallow water pooling around some cypress trees and noticed the dirt beneath some mulchy groundcover was damp. One would say of course, after all, the park includes a river. But in these drought stricken days, that doesn't mean much.

We searched for blooming objects as we walked, and while we saw a few bits of green, including ferns struggling to survive on a dry hillside, we saw only one type of blossoming shrub. ID TBD. Lady Slippers and Trillium reportedly bloom in the park during the spring. ETA TBD, but I can't wait.

Cliffs of the Neuse is a great day-trip destination. If you prefer an overnight trip, camping sites are available. In addition to hiking and camping, consider kayaking or canoeing down the tranquil blackwaters of the Neuse (byob--bring your own boat.) Swimming is available as well. From what I understand, the park has an eleven-acre lake, though we've yet to see if.

*Classification of Natural Communities in North Carolina, pg 41 and 42
** Merrian Webster online at www.m-w.com

Battle Park, Part II

We headed to Rocky Mount to introduce my husband to Battle Park. I won't rehash the report I posted last week, but I will say I saw more of the area including the falls, which I somehow missed on my first trip (I mentioned the falls in my previous report, but I had become aware of its existence only through research. I'd apparently been too entranced by the view of the glossy black waters of the Tar and the massive boulders beside the river to notice.)

Winter in Rocky Mount

While walking down the path to the rock-strewn banks of the river on this visit, I was again struck by the peace and serenity of this place. The old cotton mill is a bit unsightly, but it was a big part of this town for nearly two centuries. On the way to the park that morning, I had slowed long enough to read the historical marker outside the mill and learned that construction on it began in 1818. It was burned down by the Federals in 1863, rebuilt, and used until the late 1990's. For more information on the mill, go to www.historync.org/RockyMountMill.htm and www.lib.unc.edu/mss/inv/r/Rocky_Mount_Mills.html

These links solve the mystery behind Battle Park's name. One of the first owners of the mill was Joel Battle, and the Battle family owned the mill from 1825 to 1883. I'm sure we'll visit this park again, if only to investigate the trail that winds along the river.

Scouting Mission to Battle Park, Rocky Mount, NC

We had just a few hours to explore today, so we headed to Battle Park, a short, half-hour drive from where we now live. Rocky Mount is located off Highway 301, just south of Hwy 64, east of I-95, and about 60 miles east of downtown Raleigh. The Rocky Mount Chamber of Commerce website states Rocky Mount is the halfway point between Florida and New York. I couldn't let a statement like that go unchallenged, so I pulled up Mappoint and placed pushpins at the northeast edge of Florida, the southern tip of New York, and Rocky Mount, and did some quick calculating. By George, they're right.

I found Battle Park while reading through The Official Travel Guide: North Carolina that we picked up in New Bern shortly after our arrival in this state. In addition to providing articles about various NC destinations, the guide breaks NC down by Mountains, Piedmont, and Coast, and lists activities for each city in those regions.

From the guide and from the Chamber website, I learned Battle Park is a 54-acre park situation along the Tar River near Rocky Mount Mills Historic Mill Village. Unfortunately, we didn't have much time to look around. But what I saw was enough to make me want to go back for more. Tall loblolly pines scattered along the ground sheltered a forest floor covered with pine straw and fallen pinecones. A gazebo, built near the river, overlooked what I think is an old mill, the still waters above the Falls of the Tar, and the boulders that all information claims are the source of the Rocky Mount's name. We stopped at an old cemetery at the rim of the park and examined the headstones stretched across a slightly sloping hill. The park is reportedly the original site of the city of Rocky Mount, and the old Post Office is somewhere in the vicinity.

But how did Battle Park earn its name? I assume it's derived from one of the battles fought in this section of the state, a supposition that seemed to be confirmed by the existence of a tall marble monument commemorating Confederate soldiers, which stands near the entrance to the park. I'll have to stop by the local library on our next visit. I'm also interested in the history of the Tar River, such as the source of its name and its role in the wars fought near its banks, and the names of the wildflowers that grow in that area.

Directions to Battle Park are somewhat confusing. We traveled north on 301, then headed south on 48-43. The park is a mile or so down the road on the left. However, the road divides shortly before the turnoff. We had to turn around a block or so past the area where we thought the park was located and then drive north to reach it.

View Larger Map  |  Get Directions  |  View Bird's Eye

To see my notes from our return trip to Battle Park, go to carolinatrails.blogspot.com/2008/02/battle-park-part-ii.html

For more information on Rocky Mount, go to www.rockymountchamber.org/recreation.html