Carolina Towns and Trails: Beaufort NC

Copyright K Buffaloe

Visitors to Beaufort NC generally stroll along the sidewalks, shopping for clothes, souvenirs, or confections in one of the stores lining Front Street. Many stop to eat at one of the restaurants overlooking the scenic waters of Taylor's Creek, admiring sailboats resting in placid waters or one of the yachts moored along the shore. But across the creek is a strip of land seen, but ignored until a feral horse appears and begins grazing near the marsh. This is Carrot Island, a "cluster of small islands, salt marshes and spoil banks"(1), also known as the Rachel Carson Estuarine Research Reserve.

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Just over three miles long, and one mile wide(2), the reserve is named for the author and scientist who conducted ecological research there in the 1940s(1). It is an estuarine. A place where fresh water meets salt. That mix creates a critical environment for plant and wildlife.

Copyright K. Buffaloe

The island system is accessible only by boat, so we parked on Front Street near Island Ferry Adventures in time for the one o'clock departure. Though the trip across the creek took less than five minutes, Captain Farmer gave us a brief tour, providing tidbits on Taylor's Creek and Carrot Island, and then pointed out one of the feral horses grazing in the marsh before dropping us off on the western tip of the island.

Copyright K Buffaloe

Standing on a small stretch of beach within sight of downtown Beaufort isn't the getaway some desire, but within seconds, the scenery caught our attention.

Copyright K. Buffaloe

Though we spotted ibises, oyster beds, and the two horses we saw during the ferry ride, the beach ended at the edge of a marsh. Out of walking space, we backtracked through the soft sand and rounded the tip toward the southern end of the island. Minutes later, we encountered hundreds of tiny crabs scurrying from the water to nearby brush.

Copyright K. Buffaloe

This crescent strip of sand also ended in a marsh, but a trail led over the dune and into the maritime forest. Following a line of wooden markers, we hiked past evergreens, over burrs that stuck on our socks and shoes, into what we hoped would be the interior of the reserve. We found Indian blankets growing in the sand and teasing views of both the Atlantic and Beaufort.

But no pathway into the interior. Fortunately, the Maritime Museum in Beaufort often hosts a "Horses, Hiking, and History" tour that takes visitors on a three-hour trek through the reserve. For more information, go to www.ncmaritime.org/main/events.htm

During the hike back to the ferry rendezvous point, we were treated to the sight of an osprey flying overhead, and a run in with the fiddler crab's cousin, the ghost crab.

Copyright K. Buffaloe

The Rachel Carson unit is one of ten protected estuarines in North Carolina. For information, go to www.nccoastalreserve.net/

For more information on the Rachel Carson Reserve, go to www.nccoastalreserve.net/About-The-Reserve/National-Reserve-Sites/Rachel-Carson/58.aspx

For more information on Island Ferry Adventures, including tours, destinations, prices and seasonal dates, go to www.islandferryadventures.com/

Our thanks to Captain Farmer and Molly for making our trip even more enjoyable. I look forward to the Shackleford Trip.

1. Natural Traveler: Along North Carolina's Coast (John F Blair) pg 217
2. http://www.nccoastalreserve.net/About-The-Reserve/National-Reserve-Sites/Rachel-Carson/58.aspx

Magnolias, thick and leafy, and gnarled limbs of ancient oaks join, forming a protective canopy for those sleeping beneath a blanket of fallen leaves. Granite and marble mark the graves of some, while slabs and shells, others. This is the Old Burying Ground in Beaufort, North Carolina.

I first learned about the cemetery three years ago, shortly after moving to the eastern plains. The story of a soldier buried upright intrigued me, but our previous, too short, visits to Beaufort were spent dining or strolling along Front Street. But on this visit, we set out to find the cemetery.

Bordered by Ann, Craven and Broad streets, the cemetery sits behind the towering white fortress of Ann Street United Methodist Church. Tall trees and thick azaleas that bloom pink in the spring form such a protective barrier, we would have missed the resting ground if not for the wrought iron fence and sign marking the entrance.

Once inside, we walked leaf-covered paths, visiting gravesites of those interred from Beaufort's earliest days. Reportedly, those sleeping include a privateer, the aforementioned upright soldier, the crew of a ship that wrecked off nearby Shackleford Banks, and, according to several accounts, a child supposedly buried in a barrel of rum. While capturing the sights with my camera, I used settings I felt would better portray the feel and mood of that historic place.

A must see for those who love North Carolina's beauty and history. We'll go again in the spring, when the azaleas are exploding with color.

The Old Burying Ground wasn't our only stop that day. During our visit, we discovered another sanctuary, one we'd previously seen across the waters of Taylor's Creek, but somehow missed that it was the home of the Rachel Carson Estuarine Research Reserve. More on that in my next post.

For more information on The Old Burying Ground, go to www.beaufort-nc.com/history/old-burying-ground.shtml

Pages

Beaufort, NC: Sanctuary

Beaufort, NC: Resting Grounds