Carolina Towns and Trails: South Carolina

Showing posts with label South Carolina. Show all posts

Myrtle Beach and Myrtle Beach State Park

Let's face it, Myrtle Beach has a reputation. We all know it, but the nature of that reputation changes from person to person. Some see it as the Redneck Riviera. Others, a perfectly good destination ruined by back-to-back bike weeks. Despite that, diehard fans view it as a fun place to take the family no matter what time of year. I know for a fact it makes a nice venue for a writers retreat during the fall.

You have to admit Myrtle Beach has it all--hotels, shows, ferris wheels, miniature golf, a nice boardwalk lined with colorful flowers, and miles and miles of gorgeous beach.

Our version of bike week at MB

At the southern tip of Myrtle Beach, just north of Surfside, is a near commercial-free remnant of the old coast. A state park carved into a maritime forest that offers sand, swimming, a pier, fishing, cabins, camping, and hiking/biking trails. Breathing space we enjoyed during our first visit, in which we explored the park and the trails on new, hybrid bikes. I'm sorry to say I'm not a fan of Myrtle Beach during the high season, but after touring Myrtle Beach State Park during our version of bike week, I can't wait to rent a cabin there during the fall, wake up to a gorgeous sunrise, then relax in nature, away from crowded buildings and most of all, the crowds.

For more info on Myrtle Beach State Park, go to southcarolinaparks.com/myrtlebeach

Peachtree Rock Heritage Preserve, South Carolina

During a recent trip to Columbia, SC, we found ourselves with enough time to explore Peachtree Rock Heritage Preserve, a Nature Conservancy (SC Chapter) project just over thirty miles outside the city. As I mentioned in a previous post, if a conservancy acquires a tract of land, there's a good reason for it, so they're worth checking out.

The prized object of this conservancy is something that borders on comical, begging the question, How did it happen? But as we discovered, there's more to see at Peachtree.

Following the directions listed on two websites, we found the preserve without any difficulty. After parking in the small, dirt lot located at the trailhead, we grabbed our camera and headed down the sandy trail.

We walked through the woods, avoiding the usual trail hazards such as roots and rocks in the ground. About a quarter mile into the trail (purely guessing here), we reached a T-Junction. To our right, the trail extended past a sandstone ledge hanging several feet above the path. According to the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources, Peachtree Preserve has the largest sandstone outcroppings in the state.1

We turned left, and a couple tenths of a mile later, we reached our goal. While we stared at the curious formation, a sound caught our attention, and we followed the trail to the end and found something we hadn't known to look for.

A waterfall. The only one in the coastal plains. As I understand it, at the time of this writing, the state is experiencing drought conditions, so I don't know if the thin stream of water we saw flowing over the ten-ish foot ledge is normal, but it made the landscape even more scenic. We walked to the falls on dry ground, and stood close enough to feel the mist spraying off the rocks.

A pleasant surprise.

Okay, by now you must be wondering about the curious formation that brought us to Peachtree Rock Preserve, and why I've yet to show a photo. Here's why.

That's right. It's a giant inverted triangular rock. With a tree perched on top.

Lest anyone get the wrong impression, I think it's great. It's an incredibly unique, peculiar formation. One that should be viewed in person to appreciate the size and mass resting on that rounded point.

I was curious both about the shape and why the sandy landscape had rock ledges in the first place. According to the Conservancy's website, the softer, sandier material at the bottom of the rock eroded faster than the sandstone above it. I assume the entire area is a result of erosion. Take a closer look at the rock near the waterfall:

But interesting rock formations and a pleasant little waterfall aren't the only attractions at the preserve. As I later learned, according to the Nature Conservancy's website, we missed several natural communities:

The area harbors a swamp tupelo-evergreen shrub bog and a longleaf pine ecosystem. Typical sandhill scrub vegetation, pines, turkey oaks and sparkleberry bushes are present in abundance on the preserve. The federally endangered Rayner's blueberry is found growing on the seepage slope within the longleaf pine forest.2

I'm sorely behind on the subject of longleaf pines, but intend to cover it in an upcoming post.

Peachtree Rock Heritage Preserve is located near Edmund, SC.

Due West, SC

My hectic travel schedule has almost ended for now. Our latest stop--Due West, located south of Anderson at the base of South Carolina's foothills.

According to a little pamphlet I purchased, natives (Cherokee, I think, but the pamphlet isn't clear) ceded what is now Due West in 1777 along with what's known as Anderson, Oconee, Pickens, and Greenville counties. The origin of the city's name is unclear, but the pamphlet makes reference to Dewiss Corner, Dewises Corner, Duet's and more. However, the pamphlet also states that in 1790, the pastor of the original ARP church is the first recorded person to have used "Due West".

Now a quiet, charming town with a couple of large, Victorian homes and one main street, Due West is home to Erskine College and Seminary. It's summertime, so the students are gone and the town is incredibly quiet. I've posted a few photos of the campus, and one of downtown.

As always, all photos are copyright material.

There isn't much in terms of outdoor recreation in Due West. However, several lakes are situated nearby, and one unit of Sumpter National Forest is just south of the town. So if you're in the area, be prepared to check them out!

The State Museum (Columbia, SC)

While we missed visiting several Columbia attractions during our recent visit, I did have the opportunity to visit the State Museum, located on Gervais St.

Along with the Confederate Museum and the Cotton Mill Exchange Store, the State Museum is housed in the old Columbia Mill building near the new Vista area.

Floors once filled with the whirl of machinery and the footsteps of men, women, and children, now contain displays designed to teach the history of South Carolina, from the beginning of time.

We started our trip at the Lipscomb Art Gallery, located on the first floor. After viewing a variety of tiles and masks created by the renowned Carolinian, we went to the second floor, which covers prehistoric South Carolina, along with the varied habitats in the state. I was amused to see a picture of Looking Glass Falls, located in North Carolina's Pisgah National Forest, hanging on the wall beside posters of other SC outdoor habitats. That faux aside, we did learn a bit about the region, especially the sandhills, which we've yet to explore.

From there, we walked up a wide, open staircase to the Science and Technology displays. South Carolina and technology? Yes! Greenville native, Charles Townes, patented the laser. A former resident of South Carolina walked on the moon. South Carolinian, Kary Mullis, worked with DNA sequencing. Several individuals from SC have won Nobel prizes. Quite an eye-opener.

We also viewed displays on the modes of transportation throughout the years, including a recovered dugout canoe.

If I have an opportunity to visit the State Museum again, I'll start on the fourth floor, which, we soon discovered, covers the cultural history of South Carolina. The first three floors are informative, but the motherlode of information on the history of South Carolina, from native tribes to the time of the automobile, is what I wanted to see.

Without signage to direct us--not counting the map we received at the ticket counter, which we failed to consult--we made the mistake of starting our journey on the wrong side of the building. So we didn't get the scope of the displays until we neared the end. Still, we had a good dose of SC history in the eight permanent displays and three changing galleries located on the fourth floor. Here, I learned the original Carolinas charter issued by England's King Charles II stretched all the way to the Pacific Ocean. That the original Lord Proprietors included Craven, Hyde, Monck, Albemarle, Berkeley, Carteret, and Anthony Ashley Cooper. All names of towns, counties, and rivers Carolinians are familiar with.

To view the permanent displays in order, start with the Native American exhibit. From there, move on to Exploration & Settlement, the Revolutionary War, Plantation Life, the Civil War, Rural Life, Mill Life, and Automobiles.

Before we left, we spent a fair amount of time in the Cotton Mill Exchange Gift Store, which carries a nice selection of books along with clothing and merchandise.

The State Museum is a trip worth taking while in Columbia, but make sure you have plenty of time to thoroughly view the exhibits, watch short videos, and to let the kids play on the hands-on displays. It can easily turn into a day-long event, but operating hours are from 10:00 - 5:00, Tuesdays through Saturday (Mondays as well during the summer), and 1:00 - 5:00 on Sundays. The museum is closed on major holidays.

Columbia, SC: Honoring the Past, Focusing on the Present

One score and a month or so ago, we moved to Columbia, South Carolina, a land flowing with flowering trees. Delicate dogwoods and azaleas bloomed everywhere, nearly knocking our poor Texas-dried eyes out of their sockets. The lush (we took this picture in early spring, so you'll have to use your imagination) vegetation wasn't the only thing that floored us. Along with wide streets and magnificent architecture in the downtown area, we soon learned this city was steeped in history. With several marks in its favor, I decided to check it out.

The kids were little then, and couldn't protest too much when I put them in the car to explore. They didn't mind when we ended up at Sesquicentennial State Park or Riberbanks Zoo. But they did sigh a few times after I checked out Sherman's March Through the Carolinas and immediately began visiting places mentioned in the book.

I expected to find that same city on this visit, and at first glance, it appeared we had. After pulling into the Clarion Hotel, located on Gervais in the historic downtown area, I spotted a sign that said Sherman headquartered there during his stay.

That's the Columbia I remember.

Despite a light rain, we visited SC's capitol, aka the State House. As in the past, pink azaleas framed the immense Greek Revival structure, and gold stars still mark the spots where Sherman's cannons hit the building.

As I mentioned earlier, the streets are wide, some stretching one hundred and fifty feet across, while others, a mere hundred feet. The city planned it so because....

“The width was determined by the belief that the dangerous and pesky mosquito could not fly more than 60 feet without dying of starvation along the way.”

Residents and visitors still enjoy those wide streets, which are even more beneficial than they've been in the past.

On this trip, I once again settled into what I thought was the pulse of the city. But as I soon learned, Columbia has undergone several changes in the last decade, and it's now a good mix of past and present. Modern buildings soar beside stone or marble structures. On the way to Chick-fil-A and Atlanta Bread Company on Main Street, we passed the Doric-columned Supreme Court building. Several years ago, planners revitalized an old warehouse district by converting it to a trendy hub called the Vista, complete with condos, art galleries, and several restaurants. The brick and woodworking creates great ambiance. And for the record, the Blue Marlin has great key lime pie.

Columbia also appears to be big on the arts. We passed a dance conservatory, and later, made a grievous error by not going to the Columbia Art Museum. However, we did see a few artistic pieces around town:

Exploring time was limited on this trip, so we didn't have a chance to take a hike at nearby Congaree National Park or search for the Fort Jackson passage of the Palmetto Trail. Nor did we go to Elmwood Cemetery or the Caroliniana Room at USC. But I did make it to one attraction on my list, and I'll cover that in my next post.

Conway, SC

We took a quick trip south of South of the Border to visit friends in Conway, SC. The original plan was to spend Friday at Brookgreen Gardens in Murrells Inlet, but when chilly rain intervened, we opted to explore the historic district in Conway. A trip that turned out to be more interesting than I anticipated.

Fast Quips:

Conway is situation on the Waccamaw River, which, I learned, is the only river that originates in a Carolina Bay (Lake Waccamaw in N.C. For an interesting description of the Waccamaw River, check out SC's DNR Heritage Preserves site.) Once used for vital commerce, the river is now the place to go for recreation. A wide, paved walkway, park benches, and an inviting grassy belt make up the Riverwalk, which residents use for exercise, weddings, or just to meander over while enjoying the exotic Lowcountry beauty created by moss-laden trees reflecting in the blackwaters of the Waccamaw River.

The term "blackwaters" refers to rivers that originate in the coastal plains. These waters are high in tannic acid, which seeps into the water from the leaves of cypress trees. This gives rivers such as the Waccamaw a glossy black color, like the water at Cypress Gardens in Moncks Corner, SC. Oddly enough, though black in color, the water is actually clear.

Information on Carolina blackwater can be found at the following sites:

www.fws.gov/nwi/bha/SandT/download/SCWetlands.pdf (pg 20)
www.learnnc.org/lp/editions/cede_blackwaterriver/1)
Classification of the Natural Communities in North Carolina (pg 141)

Originally named Kingston, Conway was founded around 1733 or 1734, which makes it one of the oldest communities in the state (www.cityofconway.com/departments/visitors/history.html)

Conway LOVES the multitude of live oak trees growing throughout the city, which plays host to the ashen gray moss that shrouds the historic district in long, tattered sheets like no other Lowcountry city I've seen. Our friends told us the mighty oak, some of which date from the 1700's, is protected in Conway, so much so that city fathers built several roads around a few of the trees. Imagine driving down a typical unmarked two-lane neighborhood street only to find a rather large tree in your path. You wait as an oncoming car passes by, then you steer into the left lane and circumvent the island built around Conway's honored resident. These trees are magnificent, and they create a hauntingly beautiful picture, but we were told accidents often occur when people (inebriated or unfamiliar with this phenomenon) jump the curb and hit the trees at night.

To our delight, Conway is beginning to bloom. In addition to Camellia bushes, we found blooming tulip trees, flowering bulbs such as daffodils and what may be Snowbells or snow drops, and buds on several azaleas throughout the city. Spring is just around the corner, so if you're near Conway in the next few weeks, stop by the historic district to enjoy what is sure to be a brilliant display of color. But if you opt to drive instead of walk through the downtown area, watch out for the trees.

Murrells Inlet, Revisited

Home to the late Mickey Spillane (not to mention Lowcountry charm) and the backdrop for my book Fall in Eden/Autumn in Murrells Inlet, Murrells Inlet sits in unassuming bliss at the southern tip of Myrtle Beach's famous Grand Strand. This was our fourth visit to this overlooked city, and as in times past, we fell in love with this unique place just a little bit more.

Visitors to Murrells Inlet will notice a bevy of restaurants along Business Highway 17, and it would seem that, and a view to the inlet that provides the city with its name, is all there is to see. But hidden behind tall palm fronds and that ubiquitous Lowcountry moss are stately homes that help provide the area with a decidedly coastal flavor. Don't let that fool you--like Pawley's Island, Murrells Inlet is unpretentious and laid back. Consequently, homes for the rest of us do exist, though one wouldn't know it at first glance. The city extends west to the Horry County line, though where Murrells Inlet begins and ends, no one seems to know. I prefer it that way; it seems to add to the city's mystique.

If you find yourself in this area, you'll want to stop at one of the restaurants for a Po Boy, oysters, or a variety of other available seafood (this is after all, the Seafood Capital of South Carolina.) Hidden behind the restaurants is a scenic Marshwalk that overlooks the marshy inlet where Air Corp jump planes once flew--and sometimes crashed--and where pirates reportedly once sailed. At night, colored lights and fiery torches from the restaurants illuminate the wide walkway, and one can stroll along listening to music provided for outdoor diners as lights from Garden Point Beach shine across the dark water.

Murrells Inlet is located off Highway 17, south of Myrtle Beach, and just north of Litchfield. In addition to dining, outdoor water activities such as fishing, boat tours, and dolphin cruises are available.

If you would like to learn more about Murrells Inlet, I recommend the book Heaven is a Beautiful Place by Murrells Inlet resident, Genevieve Peterkin. She captures the flavor and history of the area with humor and love.

Just thinking about it makes me long to return.

Riverbanks Zoo and Botanical Gardens

"Oh, how can we get to the zoo?" I still recall the rhyme that we read to our kids after our first visit to Riverbanks Zoo in 1989. The girls are grown and gone now, and though my husband and I still enjoy visiting zoos on occasions, for some reason, we put off traveling to this attraction after our return to S.C. in 2003. We rectified that mistake on Saturday.

Centrally located in West Columbia, Riverbanks Zoo and Botanical Garden is less than two hours from just about any point in the state, and with 170 acres to explore, 2000 animals to see, and a variety of events to participate in, it's worth the drive.

We arrived around 1:00 P.M., and though the zoo currently closes at 6:00 P.M., we had plenty of time to look around. We parked at the Botanical Garden entrance and enjoyed a walk through a walled garden with shaded paths, fountains dancing along the pathway to the visitors center, and species after species of flowers, trees, and shrubs. It must look gorgeous in the spring.

Since we didn't know which direction the zoo was in, we took the tram to that side of the park and spent the next few hours visiting almost every exhibit the zoo has to offer. Though still hot and humid (this is October?) the animals were out, and most were active. Unfortunately, so was the crowd. We had to make our way through throngs that sometimes included more strollers than I've ever seen at one time. We could barely get through the Rainforest exhibit because of them.

Despite that, we enjoyed ourselves. After visiting the aquarium, the reptile house (eww), the bird house, meerkats, elephants, giraffes and more, we had a nice lunch at Ndoki Pizza, located at the far end of the zoo near the Ndoki Lodge and the meerkats. A slice of pizza, calzoni, order of breadsticks, and two badly needed Power Ades cost around $16.00. A higher price than we would have paid on the economy, but worth it since the food was good, the drinks cold, and by this time, we really needed to sit down and rest.

Riverbanks Zoo is open every day except for Thanksgiving and Christmas (for which I congratulate them) from 9:00 A.M. To 5:00 P.M. (6:00 PM on the weekends during summer.) Current admission prices are $9.75 for adults ($8.25 for senior citizens), $7.25 for kids 3-12, and $8.50 for military. Children 3 and under are free.

Upcoming events include Boo at the Zoo and Lights Before Christmas. Check the zoo's website at http://www.riverbanks.org/events/ for more information, including dates and admission prices.

Hatcher Gardens - Spartanburg, SC

We traveled to Hatcher Gardens this morning. It didn't look like much from John B. White Blvd, but once inside, we found a wide, paved path winding through a canopy of trees (several of which bore labels so I didn't feel too uninformed), past a roomy, creekside Gazebo that overlooked a fountain, over a small creek, and through a plethora of flowers and plants.

Though we could still hear traffic, the sound of chickadees, robins and cardinals, and the cathedral ceiling of leafy branches provided a seclusion usually found in the mountains. Wildlife is to be found as well. During our visit, a chipmunk searching for fallen seeds from a nearby feeder entertained us for a few moments before he stuck his tail up and ran off.

We found a sitting area around the half-way mark, near a redbud tree. It was a pleasant spot with a picturesque view. A good place to rest, and to chat with others.

Hatcher Gardens is a wonderful place for a half-day outing or a stress-busting walk. For more information, go to http://www.hatchergarden.org/

Lee State Park

While visiting Florence, SC, I started looking for a short hike much like we found at Santee State Park earlier this year. My search yielded Carolina Sandhills Natural Wildlife Refuge, located near McBee, S.C and Lee State Park. Lee was far closer, so we headed toward the trail.

Lee State Park is small and, at the time of this visit, not well marked. Though there appeared to be only two streets in the entire park, we had a difficult time finding the trailhead. After driving 1.2 miles into the park and turning right toward the camp ground, we turned around.

The trail we found is actually a boardwalk over a swamp. During the short walk, we saw dragonflies, anoles,bladderworts, and leatherleaf flowers (Chamaedaphne Calyculata, according to a friend).

The walk was short but peaceful. As it turns out, the park is more oriented for water recreation than land. According to the South Carolina Parks site, kayakers and canoers will enjoy a trip down the Lynches River, and those who prefer fishing can do so along the banks. So if you're near Florence and you're looking for a nice afternoon outing, stop by Lee State Park.

For more information, go to http://southcarolinaparks.com/lee/introduction.aspx

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