Myrtle Beach and Myrtle Beach State Park

Let's face it, Myrtle Beach has a reputation. We all know it, but the nature of that reputation changes from person to person. Some see it as the Redneck Riviera. Others, a perfectly good destination ruined by back-to-back bike weeks. Despite that, diehard fans view it as a fun place to take the family no matter what time of year. I know for a fact it makes a nice venue for a writers retreat during the fall.

You have to admit Myrtle Beach has it all--hotels, shows, ferris wheels, miniature golf, a nice boardwalk lined with colorful flowers, and miles and miles of gorgeous beach.

Our version of bike week at MB

At the southern tip of Myrtle Beach, just north of Surfside, is a near commercial-free remnant of the old coast. A state park carved into a maritime forest that offers sand, swimming, a pier, fishing, cabins, camping, and hiking/biking trails. Breathing space we enjoyed during our first visit, in which we explored the park and the trails on new, hybrid bikes. I'm sorry to say I'm not a fan of Myrtle Beach during the high season, but after touring Myrtle Beach State Park during our version of bike week, I can't wait to rent a cabin there during the fall, wake up to a gorgeous sunrise, then relax in nature, away from crowded buildings and most of all, the crowds.

For more info on Myrtle Beach State Park, go to southcarolinaparks.com/myrtlebeach

Rainbow Falls, Jones Gap State Park

Since I mentioned Jones Gap State Park in the last post, I'll jump ahead to a recent hike we took at the park during a recent visit to the Upstate.

It's difficult to capture the essence of the mountainous portion of the Upstate in words. Those traveling along Wade Hampton Boulevard in Greenville can look northward in some places and see a ridge rising dramatically along the horizon. This view is even clearer at locations along Highway 14 and 101. It is a part of the Blue Ridge Escarpment, where the eastern edge of the Appalachian Mountain range suddenly drops off as if the rest collapsed and inexplicably disappeared.

Hogback and Glassy Mountains as seen from Hwy 14

The formation of the escarpment, from erosion and/or the collision of land masses, is another post (see Exploring the Geology of the Carolinas by Stewart and Roberson). For the purpose of this post, the information is important because within the inner boundaries of the escarpment, one finds a rugged, rocky terrain once occupied by the Cherokee; history involving moonshine and deserters from both sides during the War Between the States; shallow, scenic rivers strewn with boulders; waterfalls, and several state parks established to preserve these resources, including Jones Gap.

Several sources claim Jones Gap is named after Solomon Jones, who reportedly cleared a road between Caesar's Head and NC's Cedar Mountain. ¹ Today, Caesar's Head and surrounding acres, including Jones Gap, are part of the Mountain Bridge Wilderness. Instead of hand-cut roads reclaimed by nature (or perhaps because of them?) the aptly-named wilderness is connected by a series of trails, several of which we've hiked over the years. Our destination on this visit: Rainbow Falls.

Parking is limited at Jones Gap, so arrive early or plan a visit during the week. We hiked mid-week, and we easily found a parking spot in the shady lot located near the Middle Saluda River. From the trailhead beyond the visitors center, we hiked a portion of the Jones Gap Trail to the fork that would take us to Rainbow Falls.

Copyright 2013 Kimberli Buffaloe

Copyright 2013 Kimberli Buffaloe

The 1.6 mile trail (from the cut-off) with a steep gain in elevation is rocky and strenuous at times, and we passed several kids and young adults who couldn't take the exertion. But it's scenic and hikers who make it to the end are treated to a lovely waterfall situated in an alcove of layered rock.

Steep elevation gain (Copyright 2013 Kimberli Buffaloe)

Lower View of the Falls

Upper View

As always, please be careful around wet rocks and waterfalls. They're beautiful, but they're simply not to be trusted. Take care while crossing streams, even if the rock appear to be dry.

Also, when visiting any park, state or national, don't leave valuables in your vehicle, especially if they're visible. Though the parking lot is small and there were few visitors that day, a lady we'd passed several times during the hike returned to discover someone had broken into her car and stole her purse. This doesn't reflect on the park--I heard the same warning from a ranger at the Grand Canyon. It reflects on people. Like wet rocks, some just cannot be trusted. Secure your valuables and have a great visit.

More more information on the history of what once was known as the Dark Corner, read:

The Dark Corner: A Documentary and Distilling the Mysteries of Hogback Mountain and Used To Be A Rough Place In Them Hills: Moonshine, The Dark Corner, And The New South

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1. History Resides in Jones Cemetery, pg 4, BlueRidgeNow.com

Waterfalling in Brevard

We recently traveled to the charming town of Brevard, North Carolina to enjoy a few days in the mountains and to introduce friends to the "Land of a Thousand Waterfalls".

Our first stop was Dupont State Forest. Land protected from residential development, Dupont is home to five impressive waterfalls, and we walked the wide, gravel road to three.

The aptly named High Falls. Note the edge of the Covered Bridge, shown below, peeking from the trees above the falls, and the people at the lower right of the base.

Hooker Falls

And Grassy Creek Falls

As I mentioned above, the land was saved from residential development, and wide gravel paths like streets wind through the forest. In addition to road signs marking trails, visitors are also treated to the sight of a covered bridge.

We didn't have the opportunity to visit Triple Falls or Bridal Veil Falls on this trip, but we had plenty of waterfalls to explore outside of Dupont. We introduced our friends to the wildly popular Looking Glass Falls, located alongside Highway 276 in nearby Pisgah Forest.

Because chilly temperatures had turned the mist to ice along the walkway, we kept out distance from the base.

Next, we stopped by Connestee Falls, located in Brevard.

This photo doesn't begin to show the powerful stream of water gushing beside the observation deck toward the cascade. Though visitors can no longer get close to the falls, or down to the base, the observation deck is a short walk from the parking lot and a nice stop if you're in the area.

Since we were so close to the South Carolina border, I couldn't resist going to Caesars Head State Park. I love the view from the escarpment.

As an added bonus, we stopped by a chapel I've long wanted to see. Nicknamed Pretty Place, the YMCA Camp Greenville's Symmes Chapel is a favorite stop for many.

As the saying goes, if you're lucky enough to live in the mountains, you're lucky enough. And we were blessed with a few days in the Land of a Thousand Waterfalls.

ACE Basin: Honorable Mentions

I don't often blog about Carolina destinations we missed during an excursion, but since I hoped to provide a good overview of the ACE Basin, I can't put off these locations until later.

Edisto Beach

Located on the southern tip of Edisto Island, Edisto Beach, is, as their website says, "one of the few uncommercialized, family-oriented beaches left." During all-to-brief visits in past years, we spotted few restaurants and hotels. Lodging is in the form of rentals: condos, townhomes, and beach homes. The tourist for the island, not the island for the tourist.

So why go? It's beautiful, isolated, and it's the home of....

Edisto Beach State Park

Our goal is to rent one of the cabins at Edisto Beach State Park and explore the trails by foot or bike, spend hours on the beach, and search the shore for sharks teeth.

Colleton State Park

Just north of Walterboro, Colleton State Park offers a nature trail, picnic grounds, ballpark, and, according to the SC Park's website, ideal paddling opportunities. See their website for more information.

Givhans Ferry State Park

According to the SC Park's website, Givhans Ferry "boasts a well-regarded mountain bike trail, shady campgrounds and well-kept, rustic cabins that offer a peaceful stay in the rural Lowcountry woods...The park is part of the 56-mile long Edisto River Canoe and Kayak Trail, and is at the end of a popular 21-mile downstream paddle from Colleton State Park. Givhans Ferry State Park is also known for its limestone river bluff and sinkholes."

See their website for more information.

Old Sheldon Church Ruins

Though it suffered damage during the Revolutionary War and the War Between the States, the hauntingly beautiful remains of Sheldon Church still stand near Yemassee. Click here to see photos and to read about the church's tragic history.

We traveled to the ACE Basin to learn more about the area. While I walked away without knowledge of its estuaries and vital importance, I did learn the Basin has much to offer in terms of outdoor activities. I hope to spend more time there in the future.

Hunting Island State Park

The ACE is the land within the horseshoe formed by the Ashepoo, Combahee, and Edisto rivers. Carolina Bays pock the northern section of the region1, but along the coast, waterways twist and wind, branching and spreading into the land like tree roots. It is, as the Marine Resources Research Institute calls it, a land of "sea islands, marsh islands, and barrier islands that are interlaced by estuaries, extensive salt marshes, intertidal areas, and oyster reefs."1 The result? Islands spaced beside one another like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle in progress. In an odd coincident, in places, the topography somewhat resembles this canopy of pine that we spotted along the trail:

Within this "Sea Island Complex"1 is Hunting Island. Once a hunting ground for private citizens3, this lush barrier island is now a state park, and it was the first stop on our ACE tour.

Having visited Hunting Island SP in 2005 or 2006, going in we knew to expect a Visitor's Center with a pond and real-live Lowcountry alligator, a marshwalk, and a beautiful lighthouse. We found all but the alligator, but spent little time at most of these attractions. Our goal for this trip was to learn more about the park, and to do so by hiking.

Hunting Island SP has several hiking trails. Two main trails form a long oval, with smaller trails connecting the two at various intervals. From the Visitor's Center, we started on the Maritime Forest Trail, a mixed forest of palmettos and pines, moss-covered oaks twisted with time, with a forest floor covered with what looked like fan palms.

About a quarter mile into the hike, we cut to our left, to the Lagoon Trail. This path runs parallel to a man-made lagoon, where we spotted a pelican flying overhead. A scenic stop on this very scenic route.

We continued on toward the cabins. While at the Visitor's Center, I learned the park no longer accepts reservations for the cabins, as the erosion so prevalent in the coast is quickly claiming the area around the structures. In Coastal South Carolina, Terrance Zepke indicates Hunting Island is eroding both at the northern tip of the island, and at the central beach. Before reaching the path that would take us to the cabins, we cut to the right, crossed the road, and took a tour of the Marshwalk.

Once past the gazebo, we continued on to the tidal creek, where we watched egrets soar over the marsh.

We doubled back and took the Maritime Forest Trail, searching for wildlife as we hiked back to our car. SC's state park site states Hunting Island has "an array of wildlife, ranging from loggerhead sea turtles to painted buntings, barracudas to sea horses, alligators, pelicans, dolphins and deer, raccoons, Eastern diamondback rattlesnakes and even the rare coral snake (I did not know that). We saw an abundance of squirrels, a pelican, and a lone woodpecker. But the forest was a sight to see, and we enjoyed our time on the trail.

But our time at Hunting Island wasn't over. We couldn't leave without seeing the lighthouse.

According to Zepke's Lighthouses of the Carolinas, this structure was built in 1875, and was moved once to avoid erosion. Today, visitors not terrified of heights can walk to the top of the lighthouse for a small fee.

In addition to hiking, boating, bike riding, camping, picnicking, kayaking, or spending time on the beach are other activities one can enjoy at Hunting Island State Park.

1. http://www.dnr.sc.gov/marine/mrri/acechar/esenviro.htm
2. http://www.beaufortcountylibrary.org/htdocs-sirsi/sea.htm 
3. Coastal South Carolina: Welcome to the Lowcountry, Zepke Terrance (Pineapple Press, 2006) p 217 

Santee State Park and National Wildlife Refuge

As I mentioned in previous posts, I recently purchased Exploring the Geology of the Carolinas, and I'm beginning to get a clue about some of the unique features hiding beneath the Carolina grass. Having read about them, I'd like to revisit several locations and explore them through more learned eyes.

Santee State Park is one such place. Located on the shores of Lake Marion, Santee SP is home to the half-mile Sinkhole Pond Nature Trail, named for several sinkholes, one of which is located near the trailhead.

Ohhhh. Sinkholes. Exciting, eh?

As it turns out, it's far more interesting than we thought. Had I owned Geology during our visit three years ago, I would have known that around 1842, an English geologist by the name of Charles Lyell visited South Carolina to study the "marl and limestone" and named what he found Santee Limestone. What is the significance? The limestone is prevalent in the area, and obvious at Santee State Park. According to the book, subterranean rivers carve caves through the chiefly calcium carbonate rock. If the roof of those caves—what we call the ground we walk on—is subject to acidic groundwater, over time, the lime dissolves and the caves collapse. And thus we have sinkholes.

Considering the amount of limestone in this area and present along NC's coastal plains—the home of acidic water—I find this fascinating, if not slightly disconcerting.

But Santee offers more than a couple interesting sinkholes. There are four hiking trails in the park, and we started with what had to be the easiest trail in South Carolina—the one mile Pinolly Trail. The path was fairly level and without too many foot obstacles, and we were never too far from the road.

The loop section of the trail was interesting. Where the the main trail was a typical path-through-the-woods trail, this section was swampy. We saw tupelo and bald cypress trees, reminding us that, like Congaree swamp, this part of South Carolina was once primordial floodplain.

We finished the Pinolly Trail in a relatively short time, and then meandered to the shores of Lake Marion.

Afterwards, we headed to the second easiest trail in South Carolina: the one-mile Limestone Nature Trail. Lovely stroll, nice views, and overall, a nice walk.

At 2,500 acres, Santee is "small" compared to other SC parks, but from what we saw, it's well suited for those who like to boat, fish, and camp. In addition to a campground where we saw both RVs and tents, nice cabins are available, including several of which are located on a pier. Before you go, make reservations through South Carolina online reservation system and call the park to confirm.

We spent at least half a day at the park, but we weren't finished with Santee. On another portion of Lake Marion is Santee National Wildlife Refuge. A resting ground for wintering waterfowl, the refuge is also home to an Indian Mound (which British forces used as the foundation for a fort during the first war for independence) and a Carolina Bay. We drove, we hiked, and we saw everything but the birds.

Just another excuse to return. For more information on Santee State Park, go to
www.southcarolinaparks.com/park-finder/state-park/535.aspx

For more information on Santee National Wildlife Refuge, go to
www.fws.gov/refuges/profiles/index.cfm?id=42570

Huntington Beach State Park

"Don't you mean Hunting Island State Park near Beaufort?" you may be thinking. Not in this post. And if you're confused, you're not alone. I've met several South Carolinians who haven't heard of Huntington Beach State Park.

Named for Archer and Anne Hyatt Huntington, who once owned the land, Huntington Beach State Park is located south of Myrtle Beach in one of our favorite towns, Murrells Inlet. The entrance, off Hwy 17, south of Bus 17, is almost directly across the street from Brookgreen Gardens. That isn't an accident. Huntington Beach SP is actually part of Brookgreen Gardens, but is on lease to the state because, in part, of its pristine maritime forest and beach.

Your journey into Huntington begins with a short trip over a causeway. To your right is a freshwater lagoon. To your left, a saltwater marsh which stretches northward, between Murrells Inlet and Garden City Beach.

Herons, egrets, and other shorebirds often soar over the marshes or munch on seafood in the pluff mud near the oyster beds, and the sight is breathtaking. But don't stop in the middle of the road to watch! Just beyond the causeway to your right is a parking area. If you have time, park your car and walk across the bridge or to the nearby observation platform where you can spend as much time as you please viewing Huntington's wildlife.

Also to the right, if you continue on, you'll find the Huntington's former residence, Atalaya. This structure is fascinating, if nothing else. One can tour the Spanish-Moor-style home for a nominal fee, and we did so on this occasion. From the courtyard entrance, you can walk through a long brick walkway that surely once had a canopy of green overhead.

Reportedly built as a winter home for the Huntington's, and as a sculpting studio for Anne Hyatt Huntington, the house is made of brick: exterior and interior walls, even the floor. The glassless windows, barred by green wrought iron, allows the sea breeze to blow through, keeping the house cool.

I could go on about this house and the history that I'm slowly learning (the Army used it as a base during WWII while patrolling the waters off the shore?) so those interested in such things should check it out in person while visiting Huntington Beach State Park.

Let's continue our tour of the park itself. Backtracking a bit, moving northward in the park, you'll pass a group campground. Just before that, rising in the air on hurricane-code stilts, is the office/general store. This is a good place to stop and use the restroom, or to pick up a snack or bottled drink. This is also the camp registration, so mark that with an X.

Further north, past the causeway you entered on, you'll see a parking lot and what looks like a trailhead into the saltwater marsh. You've reached the Education Center. The boardwalk is a short, scenic walk that I highly recommend. On past visits, we've spotted small crabs running around the pluff mud. On this visit, we noticed an abundance of oysters:

Oyster beds edge the low-tide line near the marshes

Across the street from the Education Center is a trailhead. I'll get to that in a minute.

After you leave--or pass, if you're in a hurry--the Education Center, you'll continue on to another parking lot, and that's where you'll find the good stuff. The rest of the park is nice, great place to visit and all that, but the north edge is what these CarolinasAdventurers love.

The beach. Not just a beach, but from all accounts, a pristine beach: wide, surely-at-least-a-mile long, and bordered by dunes in one spot, and maritime forest in another, ending at a jetty. Be still my heart:

It was bone-chilling cold during our visit, so our attempt to walk to the jetty failed. In warmer months, this would be a great place to spend a day on the shore, splashing in the waves, sunbathing--wearing the appropriate level of sunscreen, of course--or walking to the northern tip in the hopes of spotting Drunken Jack's Island over the dunes. Even kayak. But don't discount this destination during the winter months. It's a great place to do some birdwatching:

Primitive camping is available just off the parking lot. Imagine sleeping in a tent under the stars, with the soothing rush of waves sounding in the near distance. If we had a tent with us, we would have kicked out the Boy Scouts staying there and claimed a spot.

But we didn't, so we did the next best thing: hike.

In addition to the aforementioned marsh boardwalk, Huntington Beach State Park has a two-mile "Sandpiper Trail" which takes visitors through a maritime forest that parallels the sea. Here, you'll find three platforms that allow you to observe wildlife out of eating range.

The trailhead nearest to the platforms is off the beach parking lot. The trail is level, mainly sandy (so don't wear sandals), and we walked unimpeded until we reached the platform near the saltwater pond. We found several ducks floating atop blue waters edged with algae.

We walked about a mile, but, still chilled despite the warmth created by the protective forest, we turned around. Had we continued, we would have ended up at the trailhead across the street from the Education Center.

There's more to Huntington Beach State Park than what I mentioned here. They offer several Coastal Exploration Programs, including beachcombing, birding, coastal kayaking, and secrets of the salt marsh. For program information, call (843) 235-8755.

Like other South Carolina state parks, Huntington Beach does charge a nominal entrance fee, so check rates before your trip.

Table Rock Trails

As I mentioned in my previous post, my husband and I only hiked two trails at Table Rock: Carrick Creek and the Summit Trail. But we hiked them often.

The Table Rock Summit Trail was our first hike in South Carolina, and our last. We reached the summit twice, Governor's Rock twice, and surrendered at the Trailside Shelter (aka the halfway point) twice. These trails remains our favorite to this day despite the strenuous conditions.

Carrick Creek is great if you don't have a lot of time for an outing, but you still want a nice workout. This 1.9 mile loop branches westward, and takes about an hour to hike. Don't expect a walk in the park, so to speak. There are at least two creek crossings, and in other spots along the trail, it takes a mighty heave to pull oneself up a vertical rise or over rocks.

If you're in the mood for a long, strenuous hike with panoramic views of the Upstate portion of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the Table Rock Summit hike is perfect for you. Ascending nearly 2,000 feet, this 3.4 mile (one way) trail winds to the west and then angles eastward, along the ridge of Table Rock Mountain, and at times, it's a hard hike. You'll encounter numerous sets of wooden or hewn rock steps that often require a rest break before attempting to climb. People in moderate physical condition (or worse) will walk ten steps, stop to breath, and then shoot off another dozen steps before stopping to breath again. Keep walking until you reach the trailside shelter. Rest here and enjoy the view of the foothills, Pinnacle Lake, and the Visitors' Center, located on the south side of Hwy 11.



This is also a great place to make that important decision--continue or slink back? If you brought enough water and have enough daylight (it takes us about 6-61/2 hours to hike this trail. ALWAYS account for the time it will take to return to your car. This would be a terrible trail to get stuck on at night. Bring a flashlight just in case), and you have the strength, continue on to Governor's rock, a large outcropping that provides a spectacular view of jagged peaks.


At Governor's Rock, you're about three quarters of the way to your goal. The only things between you and the summit are a lot of rocks and a gracefully ascending trail. At one point, small steps are hewn along the side of one of the many huge boulders you'll encounter along the way. It isn't a problem going up, but if you're afraid of heights, you may have to scoot down on your rear on the return trip.

If you decide to press on, congratulations! But be prepared: unlike the Trailside shelter and Governor's Rock, the only thing you'll find at the summit is a sign and a lot of trees. Don't be discouraged. Rest a few minutes and continue about 400 more feet. That's where you'll find the view:


It's worth every exhausting step you've taken to reach it.

Warning: as with my hiking partners in the photo above, throughout the hike you might be tempted to walk to the edge of places such as the angled boulder hugging the mountain at the trailside shelter, Governor's Rock, or the top of the sheer face one sees from Hwy 11. Please don't do this. Lichen and algae growing on the rocks, and slick leaves covering the dirt can making footing dangerously unstable. The only place you'll go is down.

Pinnacle Trail is another favorite destination at Table Rock State Park, though it's more strenuous than the Summit. Sadly, we never took advantage of this trail. Those who have hiked it agreed that, while not scenic along the way, one can find good views at trails end. If you decide to try it, give yourself plenty of time. Estimated round trip time is about eight hours, including rest breaks.

Table Rock is a great Upstate destination. Camping is available, and people often canoe or kayak on Pinnacle Lake, or let their children frolic in the shallow pools near the cascades at the Nature Center.

Table Rock State Park, SC

Our favorite hike in the Upstate.

Table Rock State Park is located off Hwy 11 in Pickens County. If you're coming from Greenville, travel up Hwy 25 and turn left on Hwy 11. This road seems to end, but turn right at the T-intersection (still Hwy 11.) Several miles down the road and past Hwy 276, you'll see the Visitor's Center on the left across from the mountain. Stop here to use the facilities and to take photos. To reach the trailhead and camping area, take the entrance to the right. There is a small fee to enter the park.

Pass the camping area and drive until you reach a parking lot located near the lake. Park here and walk across the street to the Nature Center.

Copyright 2012 Kimberli Buffaloe

NOTE: Restrooms are located in a wooden building off the far end of the park lot across from the lake and at the Nature Center. Consider using them before you start your hike. The trails are often crowded, and there aren't many places to sneak off to relieve yourself along the way.

After you leave the Nature Center, cross over the bridge but stop at the main trailhead and fill out the Hiker Registration form. I cannot express how important this is. On our first visit to Table Rock, we saw paramedics load a hiker onto a stretcher. Later, during a chat with a park ranger we during our hike, we learned hikers are injured every year when they take chances along the trail, underestimate their ability to hike, or when they slip on rocks or trip on exposed tree roots. My husband cracked his tailbone in a fall on the Carrick Creek Trail. Injuries do happen, and rangers need to know the general vicinity in which you'll be hiking and the time you left in the event they find your abandoned car. Please, fill out this form before you begin your hike.

Copyright 2012 Kimberli Buffaloe

Next, head toward the trail through a shady area alongside a creek that will tempt you to stay where you are. The presence of several small cascades are inviting, and you'll find yourself lagging behind, enjoying the beauty and serenity the view brings.

If you make it past the falls, you'll reach a juncture where the trails branch off. There are several trails to choose from, including a segment of the Foothills Trail. The shortest trail is Carrick Creek. The toughest, from what I understand, is the Pinnacle Mountain (not counting the Foothill Trails.) Know where you're going before you reach the park, give yourself plenty of time, and be prepared for a rugged hike. The Summit Trail is particularly strenuous, yet people attempt to hike it in wearing street sandals and hauling purses or babies.

As with all hikes, carry recommended equipment including (not limited to) a first aid kit, a flashlight in case you get stuck after dark, a compass, and plenty of water and/or Gatorade. On our first attempt to hike the Summit Trail, I took one 16-oz bottle of water. It wasn't enough and I ended up offering a park ranger $100 for a drink of her water. No kidding. Good ranger that she was, she handed over the water and refused the money. I now take ten bottles (total) of water and Gatorade whenever I hike this trail. Yes, it's heavy, but I overheat easily. The trail is strenuous and it's important to stay hydrated. A walking stick is also quite helpful on these trails.

Why bother? It's a great hike with fabulous views.

When out in nature, please be careful. So often we're accustomed to walking around streets and in buildings knowing we can generally tread without injuring ourselves. Nature has its own rules and it doesn't care about liability. Please watch where you're walking and stay off precipices and rocks in creeks. Don't take chances. Hike smart so you can return to hike another day.