Waterfalling in Brevard

We recently traveled to the charming town of Brevard, North Carolina to enjoy a few days in the mountains and to introduce friends to the "Land of a Thousand Waterfalls".

Our first stop was Dupont State Forest. Land protected from residential development, Dupont is home to five impressive waterfalls, and we walked the wide, gravel road to three.

The aptly named High Falls. Note the edge of the Covered Bridge, shown below, peeking from the trees above the falls, and the people at the lower right of the base.

Hooker Falls

And Grassy Creek Falls

As I mentioned above, the land was saved from residential development, and wide gravel paths like streets wind through the forest. In addition to road signs marking trails, visitors are also treated to the sight of a covered bridge.

We didn't have the opportunity to visit Triple Falls or Bridal Veil Falls on this trip, but we had plenty of waterfalls to explore outside of Dupont. We introduced our friends to the wildly popular Looking Glass Falls, located alongside Highway 276 in nearby Pisgah Forest.

Because chilly temperatures had turned the mist to ice along the walkway, we kept out distance from the base.

Next, we stopped by Connestee Falls, located in Brevard.

This photo doesn't begin to show the powerful stream of water gushing beside the observation deck toward the cascade. Though visitors can no longer get close to the falls, or down to the base, the observation deck is a short walk from the parking lot and a nice stop if you're in the area.

Since we were so close to the South Carolina border, I couldn't resist going to Caesars Head State Park. I love the view from the escarpment.

As an added bonus, we stopped by a chapel I've long wanted to see. Nicknamed Pretty Place, the YMCA Camp Greenville's Symmes Chapel is a favorite stop for many.

As the saying goes, if you're lucky enough to live in the mountains, you're lucky enough. And we were blessed with a few days in the Land of a Thousand Waterfalls.

Skinny Dips Falls

Before I move on to the next portion of our waterfall wanderings, I thought it best to spend a little more time at Skinny Dip Falls.

The trail to the falls is located off the Blue Ridge Parkway. When I say "off", I mean park at the Looking Glass Rock Overlook, look both ways and cross the street, and enter the trailhead, marked by a small post, at the northern tip of the parking lot. The trail is short, about a half mile according to my waterfall sources, but it's an interesting walk. We encountered this after entering the woods:

Yes, it's every bit as creepy in person.

It's important to note the trail is rocky and wet in places:

In at least one sloping section, we had to pick our way over boulders the size of laundry baskets. Not difficult for us, even with my sore ankle, but one elderly lady we encountered had problems. She and her companions never made it to the falls, and we didn't spot them on the return trip, so they apparently made the practical decision to turn back.

After crossing the trickle of a stream shown above, and ascending the rock steps, we finally reached an observation platform and were delighted by the scene before us. Down a slope and across the stream, a lovely cascade nestled between rocks and rhododendrons spilled into a clear pool of water:

It was far more accessible than I imagined. A set of wooden stairs, somewhat steep, leads to a bridge over the stream, allowing visitors to get a closer look at the falls.

Though, again, it's dangerous to play on rocks around waterfalls. Please use caution while visiting this, and any waterfall.

As we walked down the steps toward the bridge, we spotted a third cascade to our left, located straight out from the falls, spilling over smooth rocks near the bank:

Ahhh, beautiful. If I'd known how attractive this waterfall was, we wouldn't have passed it so many times while heading toward other Parkway destinations. It's a must stop, but be prepared, it's also a popular stop. We were fortunate to snap several pictures of the falls by itself. The rest of our images include both people and dogs.

If you're interested in visiting the falls, and if you haven't purchased Kevin Adam's book yet, 

Before traveling to the Blue Ridge Parkway, always check for road closures. It's frustrating to have your heart set on spending the day at one of the Parkway's hotspots only to encounter a set of barriers blocking the road.

Parkway Pics

We just returned from our latest journey, and after three back-to-back trips, I find I'm deprived of creativity and flowing thought (reference Due West post) so a decent article will have to wait. Until then, I'll leave you with a few pictures we took along the Blue Ridge Parkway this weekend.

The Parkway is always a treat (if you'll recall, I ranked it as one of my top NC destinations for the WYFF interview) and this time was no different. Along with amazing views, we found plenty of Turks Caps Lilies growing, or about to bloom. What a wondrous creation!










We entered the Parkway from Hwy 191 near the NC Arboretum, and drove south to Mt. Pisgah, where we ate dinner at the Pisgah Inn. With its fabulous views, gift shop, and a menu that ranges from chicken tenders to mountain trout, I've long ranked this as the number one eatery on the Parkway. We visit as often as we can. The Inn itself is nice as well. It books quickly, so call well in advance to make a reservation, though we once snagged a room on a Friday after someone canceled.



Not the greatest shots, but I'd left the tripod in the car. If it helps, the windowed-wall at the restaurant overlooks this:

It takes our breath away every time we see it.

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Copyright 2009. All Rights Reserved. Do not distribute text or photos.

Pink Beds--Pisgah National Forest

Located off Hwy 276 in the Pisgah National Forest near the Blue Ridge Parkway, Pink Beds is generally considered to be a picnic area. Visitors to this valley named after the pink tinted rhododendron, azalea, and mountain laurel blossoms that bloom there every spring can sit at one of twenty-one picnic tables spread around a grassy field. However, the Pink Bed loop hiking trail is a must see for all day hikers. The 3-5 mile trail (trying to confirm that length) circumvents the picnic area and provides a close view of the natural flora and fauna in this region, wildlife, and in the spring, Swamp Pinks, which are now listed on the Federal Endangered species list.

We arrived at 11:00 a.m. To our surprise, only four cars sat in the parking lot. Five minutes after our arrival, a man and three young boys popped off the trail and headed to one of those vehicles. We made preparations to go hiking at our car while they unloaded from theirs, but a few minutes later, one of the young 'uns headed toward us. When he reached us, he handed us a business card. Seems his father is a wildlife photographer and his kid is his PR guy :o)

I took the card because I can't stand to upset kids (there's your marketing ploy folks!) and as I read it, the father calmly told us he saw a bear on the trail. I looked up. A bear? In the woods? One thought immediately came to mind. And if you forgot, grab your copy of Bill Bryson's, A Walk Through the Woods and turn to page 17. I'll wait.....

Ready? Here we go:

"So let us imagine that a bear does go for us out in the wilds. What are we to do?....A grizzly may chew on a limp form (playing dead) for a minute...With black bears...playing dead is futile, since they will continue chewing on you until you are past caring..."

Mr Bryson proceeds to dispense advice that he read before he hiked a portion of the AT, such as: make a lot of noise if you think a bear is near. However, on page 18 he adds that this tactic may actually provoke a bear. He then relates a grizzly story (no pun intended) about two young men who were mauled by a black bear when the boys got too close to her cubs.

Oh, did I forget to mention the bear on the Pink Beds trail had a few cubs with her? And there we were--the Buffaloes. On a Trail. With a Bear.

Yes, I had hoped to see a bear at some point before we left the SC Upstate. I thought it would be cool. But hike with a bear? Not something I wanted to do but let's face it, we take this risk every time we go into the woods. The only difference now was that we knew such a creature actually existed. So we proceeded with caution, ready to make a lot of noise.

This was our first visit to Pink Beds, so I didn't know what to expect. Well, I did expect it to be wetter than it was, but the ground was dry. I don't know if that's common for this time of year, or if the drought is to blame. I assume the latter. I enjoyed the walk, though. The trail was surprisingly level, and while hazards such as roots and rocks existed in the path, we found short, wooden bridges over what I guessed were once boggy areas. We enjoyed the solitude, the trees, the variety of plants and ferns growing everywhere. What bothered us--me--was the cow bell ringing in the distance.

"Do they put bells on bears?" I asked my husband, showing my city roots. He laughed (guys, always a bad move.) But the bell sounded as if it were growing closer, and after awhile I saw hubby sneak a peek over his shoulder.

We passed an older couple who appeared to be unperturbed. We asked if they'd seen a bear. They shook their head but increased their pace. We continued on, enjoying the foliage along the shady trail. Then we came upon another hiker and his dog.

While poochy stopped at my husband's feet to worship him, my husband asked the man if he'd spotted a bear. The guy said no, but someone reported a sighting to him. We continued on for three more minutes, then we turned around, unwilling to chance a run-in.

We had a good time despite the bear scare, and definitely intend to go back to finish the loop and perhaps have a picnic lunch.

For more information on the trail at Pink Beds, go to Pink Beds Best Hike.

And because I hate to disappoint kids, here's the link to the dad's wildlife gallery: http://www.pricewildlifegallery.com/

I hope the kid works on commission.

Buckhorn Gap Trail - Pisgah National Forest

I'm not sure how to approach this trip report. I don't feel like writing it with a humorous twist because in the end, it wasn't funny. But I can't get overly dramatic because for the most part, we enjoyed ourselves and we did survive. I'll just stick with the facts. Read carefully.

Our original plan was to follow the lead of another member of our hiking group and go to Little Glassy Mountain, but after a problem filled week at work I needed something a little more secluded, someplace where problems and a cell phone signal couldn't find me. This little tidbit will come into play later in the story.

I picked up Kevin Adam's Best Wildflower Hikes in NC and flipped through it until I came across Hike #47—Twin Falls in Pisgah National Forest. It sounded perfect. After making sure we had EVERYTHING under the sun except for a jacket because it was warm outside and a manageable map because I had Mr. Adam's book, we left. Unfortunately, that was around noon. That was our first mistake.

FR 477 or Avery Creek Road, the road that leads to Buckhorn Gap Trail (the trail that takes you to Twin Falls) is located just past the Pisgah National Forest’s visitor's center on Highway 276. It's a road I'm sure we've seen in the past, but we totally ignored, so when we turned and saw the sign announcing the road was closed 1.75 miles down near the stables, we decided to explore it anyway. After all, it's in Pisgah. It had to be interesting.

It was. We stopped several times to check out the campsites along the road or the clear water running through Avery creek. We weren't in the mood to leave, so we decided to hike along 477. As we were grabbing packs and walking sticks, two hikers returned from the direction we were about to head in and mentioned the trailhead wasn't very far. It was getting late but a quick glance at our watch told us we had another three and a half hours of daylight left, so we decided to hike to the falls anyway. That was our next mistake.

This was by far the most scenic trail we've been on this winter. It follows Avery Creek for awhile but then branches off and follows another white-water, cascade filled creek.

It had rained the day before, consequently, the trail was drenched and we walked through mud, soggy leaves, and pools of water as we went. There was water everywhere. Part of the trail was washed out in one spot and just impassable in another. We held onto trees as we skirted around the muddy bog. I kept wondering what it looked like when the flowers were blooming.

We reached the falls around four o'clock and spent as much time as we dared enjoying the view. But time was running out so we left. Because I didn't feel like hiking with Mr. Adam's book, I left it in the car. Another mistake. The result of that decision was our getting turned around a bit and heading in the wrong direction after leaving the falls.

I was sure the trail was a loop, so we kept on walking, certain we'd reach 477 soon. We reached a gravel road, which make hiking easier. But about an hour later, night fell. We pulled out our flashlights and when we reached a Y-Junction that had absolutely no markings on it, we decided to back track.

We were at an elevation somewhere in the vicinity of 2,600 feet. It was cold on that mountain and we didn't have a jacket, but as long as we moved, we were okay. It was also dark. We had two flashlights, but the batteries in mine were weak, and soon after, the light faded. I walked behind my husband as close as I dared, but the darkness swallowed the light and I could barely see. Back tracking the remainder of the trail was out: after we left the falls, we'd climbed a hill with an elevation of around 1,400 feet. We'd have to make our way down that hill in the dark, and if we did make it, the trail below it was confusing. If we missed one of those orange blazes, we would be lost in the Pisgah National Forest.

We were obviously lost, but what could we do without a map? We reached the gravel road and stopped at the point where the Black Mountain Trail intersected with Buckhorn Gap to regroup our thoughts and to make a plan. The cold began settling in our bones. We saw a sign for a trailside shelter. Kelley searched for it, but couldn't find it. He rejoined me where I stood in the dark, and finally, the realization that we were in big, big trouble sank in.

Late Afternoon Rays Indicate Trouble Is Ahead

I carried a Cobra hand radio in my pack, so I tried to contact someone to find out how far we were from the trailhead. No answer. I shouted into the darkness. No answer. We both tried using our cell phones. No signal. We were stuck in the dark on a mountain in the cold and we were lost.

Why didn't you build a fire? You might ask. We could have, but keep in mind this is January. The sun set around 5:30 or 6:00. We were facing twelve hours of darkness. It takes a lot of kindling and firewood to keep one warm for that amount of time, and to collect it meant risking a fall down steep slopes hidden in the darkness. We were also in the middle of a drought, and while it had rained, we had no guarantees that it rained there. We were surrounded by trees with nothing but leafy ground cover under our feet.

We finally realized we wouldn't make it through the night. We were about to die.

We had a lot of sweet moments in the time that followed, and we didn't hesitate to say how much we loved each other and how blessed we were to have the other in our lives. Surprisingly, I wasn't scared. I was on the trail with my husband, and I knew where I was going. It was okay.

We didn't give up though. At times I shouted (I have a really big voice), and Kelley still sought solutions. I tried my cell phone again, trying this spot and then another. And with my phone (not Kelley's, for I tried) and while standing on one spot, I was finally able to reach 911. We shared our predicament. They took the info and said they'd call back. An hour later, with my phone and on that spot, I called back. As it turns out, they'd been trying to call me but couldn't get through.

I should take a moment to mention that I have an old Nokia phone. I need a new one, but I refused to give up this particular phone because Nicholas Sparks used it to say Happy Birthday to my daughter during one of his book signings. No way I was going to give it up. Because of that, my old dual-band phone was able to reach 911 in a forest which, according to rescuers, has only 11% cell coverage. God does indeed work in mysterious ways.

Two hours after we called for help, two ATV's and a pickup arrived. We then learned we were three miles from the trailhead. If we'd had a map, we would have known the gravel road we'd stopped on led back to the stables. That may have helped, we don't know. It took a half hour to drive down it, so there's no telling what would have happened to us while walking in the dark.

We arrived at our car at 10:oo PM. The temperature at the stables where the Brevard Rescue squad had set up rescue operations was 43 degrees.

Lesson learned: No hikes over two miles during the winter. We start early, make sure we have flashlights with fresh batteries, proper clothing, and those little silver emergency blankets. Most important, we don't assume we'll be okay just because we hike frequently.

Buckhorn Gap is an attractive trail, and with Twin Falls waiting for you at the end, a hike well worth the effort, but take a map with you and stay aware. Learn from our mistakes and hike smart.

Looking Glass Falls, Moore Cove Falls

We wanted to find something a bit cooler than Greenville today, so we headed north toward Hwy 276.

Our first stop: Looking Glass Falls.

Formed by the collapse of the ground beneath Looking Glass Creek, the 60-foot falls is located on Hwy 276 in Pisgah National Forest, several miles north of the Visitor's Center. The road has been widened to accommodate cars, so when you arrive, pull into the parking area and walk to the observation deck. I took the photo below from the upper observation deck. This gives you an idea how close it to the road.

Looking Glass Falls

Enjoy the frothy water from the deck or the nearby bench, or walk down the steps to the lower observation area near the base of the falls. A small opening allows visitors to walk onto the bank or trudge through the chilly creek to swim in the shallow waters, or walk upstream for a really cool photo. We've been there more times than we can count, but the spray is so cool, so refreshing, it's always worth another visit. We stayed there for awhile, relishing the mist until the crowd thickened, and then we headed up the road.

Eager to explore, we stopped at the little trailhead we've seen dozens of times but had never bothered to investigate: Moore Cove.

We enjoyed the hike despite the fact it was short (0.7 miles each way.) My bad knee was bothering me, but I didn't have any trouble climbing up the steep steps near the beginning of the pathway. There was a bit of mud along the way, and as we got further along, the trail became darker and more dismal--in a good way.

We passed several individuals obviously drying out from a good soaking, so we assumed Moore Cove had a base similar to that of Looking Glass. Instead, we found a sleek falls that spilled over a narrow precipice to a small pool. One can walk around the falls, including behind it and to the top, but I cannot emphasis the folly of the latter. At least two individuals died at Moore Cove during our time in SC. If you're not willing to climb on your roof when it's wet, it's best not to climb to the top of a waterfall.

It began to rain about a quarter of the way back to the car. Fortunately, we carry rain ponchos, and we pulled them out when the rain broke through the canopy of trees we were hiding under. We looked like a couple of orange trolls wandering through the woods, but it was worth protecting our camera, which contained the photo above.

Word of warning, Kelley slipped a couple of times in the mud that pooled up along the narrow path near the trailhead. As we were advising an older couple to turn back to their car, he slipped again, this time down the last step. So be careful if it rains while you're out there.