New Year's Day at Pocosin NWF

It is our custom to visit a Carolina destination on New Year's Day. This year, we chose the Pocosin National Wildlife Refuge. During a phone call this past November, a botanist at the refuge office indicated the number of snow geese migrating through the area generally peaks between Christmas and New Year's, so we headed to Pungo in an effort to see the twenty, thirty, or sixty thousand birds that reportedly stop by for a visit.

A bit of a mistake.

Eastern North Carolina has been blessed with an abundance of rain in recent days, and within the refuge, one travels around on a series of dirt roads. We knew it would be muddy, but after twenty-four hours without precipitation, we assumed the water had run off and our Durango could maneuver the resulting caked path. For the most part, it did. Unfortunately, the canals and lower-lying areas were flooded, and in places, the water stretched across the road. One large puddle blocked our way to the observation platform on Hyde Park Road.

We turned around and tried an alternate route, but nearly got stuck in what turned out to be thick, sludgy mud at the obscure west entrance. The trip wasn't without its merits, though. We saw an abundance of birds, and a couple of deer who seemed to be as curious of us as we were of them.

And finally, a few snow geese. Unfortunately, they were fairly high in the sky. The smudges you see on the photo is most likely muddy water:

Pocosin NWR is a great place to view wildlife--when it's dry, or if you have the proper vehicle and a winch. Before you visit, contact the office for road closures, and before hitting any Carolina trail during hunting season, check to see if hunting is permitting on the lands. If so, wear orange.

From Pungo to Mattamuskeet: Chasing Waterfowl of the Pocosins

It's November (though we're still trying to figure out how), which means the Pocosin lakes on the Albemarle-Pamlico peninsula will soon be filled with thousands of mergansers, wood ducks, Tundra swans, and at least three snow geese.

Eager to see the symphony of flight, we traveled to Pungo Lake to see what was out there. Unfortunately, as with our last visit, the south entrance at Hyde Park Road was blocked off. More unfortunately, the road running perpendicular was also barricaded. More on that later.

There was no sense turning around until we met our objective, so we set the GPS to Lake Mattamuskeet and headed east...and didn't see a single duck. Not one. Nor did we see any swans or the feather of a snow goose. But Mattamuskeet being Mattamuskeet, there was still beauty to be found in her waters and along her shores, including a doe that seemed as curious about us as we were of her:

October at Mattamuskeet

Because we intend to return to Pungo next month, I called the Pocosin National Wildlife Refuge to ask about the road closures. The admin connected me to the refuge's botanist (Botanist? Goodness, I could have kept her on the phone all day) who informed me the entrance at Hyde Park Road is always blocked. Worse, the dirt road that runs perpendicular is a private road, so we're not at liberty to use it to travel around the refuge.

The botanist, Wendy, I believe, did inform me the observation platform on the south side of Pungo can be reached by turning on Pat's Road from Hwy 45, then right on the first dirt road and left on Hyde Park Canal (north of the barricade). Take a good map or GPS—and four wheel drive—if you attempt this route.

Wendy also mentioned she spotted thirty Tundra swans that morning. Finally! More are sure to follow in the near future. That alone thrilled me, but then she mentioned she planned on taking an aerial survey of the surrounding fields to see if other birds had slipped in unnotice.

Aerial survey? I wonder if they need someone to tag along to take photos....

Image of the Day: Fishing at Mattamuskeet

We recently made a quick trip to Lake Mattamuskeet (or as I called it that day, Lake ManyMosquitoes) to check out the goings on. All seemed quiet, but in a few months, thousands of ducks and swans and two or three snow geese will descend on the pocosin lakes in this region. Until then, Lake Mattamuskeet seems to be the place to while away the lingering summer hours:

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The Search for Pungo (Part I)

I can't give up. Even if a bout of frustration causes me to quit, rarely can I stop all efforts to achieve a goal. So it wasn't a surprise when, after our original outing plans fell through last week, I pulled up Mappoint and Google Earth and set out to find an access point to Pungo Lake.

Twice last year we tried to find this obscure body of water, and twice we failed. Once, our GPS indicated it was beside the dusty road on which we stood. Having seen it as a destination in my exploring north carolina book, as well as other resources, I knew it had to have an entrance. But where? After zooming in and scooting the image left, right, up and down on both digital maps, I found two potential access points to the lake. I set the GPS for one and my iTouch maps app for the other.

And we found it: http://tinyurl.com/PungoEntrances (click on aerial).

Pungo Lake is part of the 110,000+ acre Pocosin National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge is nestled between Highways 99 and 94, moving south from Phelps Lake, and extending to New Lake (a.k.a. Alligator Lake). Need a visual to get your bearings? Click here for a map.

If the refuge name sounds familiar, think back to the North Carolina wildfires of 2008. The pocosin forest just north of Pungo caught fire, which burned deep into the peat that makes up the forest floor. Though the wildfire blanketed the state with thick smoke (and chased us to Richmond, Virginia) I recently learned that, like the longleaf pine forest, fire is beneficial to this natural community. Many plant species that exists in a pocosin thrive from it.

But that's another natural communities blog post. For now, let's continue down the road.

The refuge, and thus Pungo Lake, is located on the Albemarle-Pamlico Peninsula. The large center "flap" on the coastal plains if you're looking at a map. On each of our visits, I'm struck by the order that now pervades a land once covered in tangled shrubs. Originally inhabited by Algonquin-speaking natives, and after years of rigorous taming, farmland, boxed off by deep ditches, creates a quilted look visible from plane windows or satellite images. Tilled rows lead the eye to a line of longleaf pines in the distance.

We had unexpected company on this trip. Following directions dished out by our GPS, we drove east on Hwy 264, then turned north on Hwy 99 in the heart of charming Pantego. After turning right onto Hwy 45, we spotted an impressive flock of large, white birds resting in the midst of winter wheat. Though we suspected we'd found more Tundra Swans--yet still hoping we'd found the elusive snow geese--we pulled off the road near a couple taking pictures beside a truck.

Yes, I have a picture, but I didn't know about it until we returned home. Therefore I didn't have a chance to secure permission to post it. Next time.

No one hauling kayaks and cameras on a Carolina trail is a stranger, so after taking pics of the *sighs* swans, we introduced ourselves to Steve and Gail, birders from the Durham area. Ironically, they were looking for Pungo.

They followed us, which, if you're a regular reading, you know isn't a good idea. Though I have maps galore and a good Carolina atlas, we often guess at a route or say "hey, I wonder where this goes". Apparently, my preparations and the routes we showed them on both machines convinced them we knew where we were going. Fortunately, it worked out this time (thank you, Lord) and before long, the four of us were standing on an observation platform staring at the gorgeous blue waters of Pungo Lake.

A Not Quite Stitched-Together View of Lake Pungo

Next Post: Pungo

NC's Natural Communities, Part II: Lake Mattamuskeet

According to the University of North Carolina's, Documenting the South, John Lawson arrived near Bath, NC on February 24, 1701.1 Shortly after, he built a home near modern day New Bern. Since Mr. Lawson intended to survey the Carolinas, I can only believe he found his way to Lake Mattamuskeet, located just northeast of New Bern, across the Pamlico Sound. In his journal, A New Voyage to Carolina, he makes a reference to "(swans) which come in great Flocks in the Winter".2

It must have been a sight to behold. It is today. This past spring, a member of my hiking group mentioned the snow geese swirling over Mattamuskeet at sunrise and since then, I haven't been able to get that mesmerizing image out of my mind. Eastern NC CarolinasAdventurers discussed a January outing, but I couldn't wait. A week after visiting Green Swamp, my husband and I were standing on the shores of North Carolina's largest natural lake.

Over five miles wide, like Phelps and Pungo (also located on the Albemarle-Pamlico Peninsula) Lake Mattamuskeet is shallow, on average, just two feet deep.3 According to exploring north carolina's natural areas, it's also the largest Pocosin lake in the southeast United States.4 If you've seen a map of North Carolina, you've seen this lake—it looks like a hole punched out in the bottom of the raggedy middle flap of NC's coast.

Finding Mattamuskeet wasn't hard. We traveled east on Hwy 264 until we reached Hwy 94, then we turned left. Thankfully (for us, not the birds) this highway slices north-south through the center of the lake. We parked on a grassy shoulder a mile down the road and were promptly blown away. Hundreds of brown ducks that we mistook as broken wood or the bases of trees drifted in the shallow water near the shore. Shortly after, they took flight.

Beauty makes me weep, and the sight of that large flock flowing gracefully through the sky before us nearly brought me to tears. Only the unequivocal joy surging through me as I watched them and several herons lounging nearby kept the brine at bay.

Fifty-two pictures later, we resumed our journey, and for the next hour we observed and photographed more waterfowl than I've seen at one time: Blue Herons. White Herons. Canada Geese and a long stretch of birds floating a mile down the lake captivated us. We stopped at the observation pier, located near the midpoint of the road, and watched Tundra swans floating past an island of cypress trees, its knobby knees sticking up like a bed of nails. I jerked the car off the side of the road at my husband's command when we spotted herons perched in a tree. We photographed a clutch of herons standing in still waters, their reflections as clear and defined as the birds themselves. We continued on until hunger forced us to find food. 

Mattamuskeet is a must for bird and nature enthusiast, and anyone who loves beauty. And there's more to explore than what we saw. If you view the lake through Google Earth, you can see a jetty or boardwalk jutting into the water on the east side, and several small islands on the west. We'll have another chance, though. We still have that January outing, and I wouldn't be surprised if we slipped back there in December. Wouldn't you?

Phelps Lake (Pettigrew State Park)

Ancient cypress trees edging a five-mile wide lake. Hundreds year old canoes used by Algonquin hunters resting beneath shallow, acidic waters. Blue Herons resting in deep canals carved through the land. Why we waited so long to explore this overlooked Walden, I'll never know.

Often referred to as the Eastern Dismal Swamp, the Pamlico-Albemarle Peninsula, located south of Edenton, was once home to hunters and game, cypress trees and primordial wetlands. But sometime after 1755, daring settlers such as Josiah Collins drained the wetlands and converted much of the peninsula into farmland.1

How did these pioneers dry this pocked terrain and transfer the resulting crops to market? We learned that, in an amazing engineering feat performed under grueling conditions (wet land, an abundance of trees and vegetation, bugs, alligators, who knows what other beasts), workers dug a six-mile long canal—wide enough for a ship to pass through—that connected Phelps Lake to the nearby Scuppernong River. There, boats then traveled to the Albemarle Sound. The completion of this canal, which can still be seen alongside Thirty Foot Canal Road, sealed the land's agricultural destiny.

A portion of the Albemarle-Pamlico Peninsula is now Pettigrew State Park (Pettigrew being the family of the Confederate General.) We knew little about this place before our arrival, but a bit of research helped me prepare a decent outing. From the park's incredibly informative website, I learned Phelps Lake is on average only four and a half feet deep—nine feet at its maximum depth. And, though filled with the typical coastal plain blackwaters on windy days, on a calm day, one can see the lake bed through crystal clear waters.

From the website, I also learned about the twenty-nine canoes resting on the bottom of the lake. It's believed Algonquin Indians once used the canoes during seasonal hunting. At the end of the season, the natives stored the canoes in the water and recovered them when they returned the following year. Somehow, the freshwaters of this rain-fed, yet acidic lake actually preserves wood instead of destroying it. One canoe is on display in a visitor's center.

Po·co·sin 2 (\peh-KO-sen\ )
Etymology: probably from Virginia or North Carolina Algonquian
: an upland swamp of the coastal plain of the southeastern United States

exploring north carolina's natural areas section on the Peninsula (Pocosin Lakes and Wetlands, page 117-120) provided additional information on Pettigrew's ecosystem. Phelps Lake is elliptical shaped, much like a Carolina Bay. However, some resources indicate it's a Pocosin lake. Others imply it's surrounded by Pocosins. Since I'm still not entirely sure what a Pocosin looks like, I can't make the call.

We arrived at the park shortly before noon. Following the recommendation in the exploring north carolina book, we stopped in the Ranger's office for a map and a look at the stuffed animals crammed on shelves around the tiny office. The collection is amazing. I assume the animals once roamed Pettigrew's air and forest floor, however, I'm not a fan of taxidermed critters, so we grabbed a map and left.

To minimize problems born from unfamiliarity, we usually scout out a destination before we explore it on foot. Using the map we had obtained from the Ranger's office, we attempted to drive down a road to see where it went. The horseshoe-shaped lane led us around the Family Campground—a cleared area about a quarter mile in length separated into eight campsites. We circled back to see what we would find on the other end of the road. A short distance later, we found the boat ramp and the Visitors Center where the dugout canoe is on display. We spent a few minutes admiring the ancient relic and then went on a hike.

Phelps Lake has five hiking trails. Three are less than one mile (one way). The Moccasin Trail, which begins at the Ranger's office, is 2.8 miles, and the Morotoc Trail, just north of Cypress Point, is 4.2 miles, so visitors can get a decent workout while staying at Phelps Lake.

Short on time, we chose the one-mile Bee Trail. The trailhead is located at the far end of the Family Campground. The mowed vegetation path travels past the restored Somerset Place, where visitors can get a glimpse of plantation life as it once was on this isolated peninsula; Jurassic-style cypress trees, and the path to the Pettigrew family cemetery. It ends at a small platform overlooking Phelps Lake.

After our walk, we drove southwest to the Cypress Point fishing pier. Even if you don't plan to fish, this is a great place to relax, view the lake, and get a good glimpse of the black cypress trees edging the water.

We failed to make it to the Pocosin Natural Area on the south side of the lake. Next time, for certain.

In addition to hiking, camping, and fishing (check state and local regulations), Phelps Lake offers the aforementioned boat ramp and a canoe launch, located at Cypress Point, for those who prefer water recreation. Because the lake is so shallow, please call the park before planning activities such as waterskiing/boarding or parasailing.

Additional Info:
In addition to the Family campground, the park offers a group campsite off Bee Trail, complete with a restroom.

Navigating around Phelps Lake is somewhat confusing. Even with our GPS, finding our way to Cypress Point off Shore Drive proved difficult. From the Ranger's office, drive north on Thirty Foot Canal Road, then turn left on Mail Route Road. Mail Route appears to be partially unimproved, but it's the best, shortest way to Shore Drive (note: Mail Route Road turns into Cross Road.) Continue west until you reach Weston Road. Turn right onto Weston, then travel north, bearing to the left onto Secondary Road 1164 when the street forks. Turn left on Newland, and then left on Shore Dr. Watch for the signs to Cypress Point.



1. http://ncparks.gov/Visit/parks/pett/history.php
2. http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/pocosin

Great Lake, Cedar Point Tideland Trail in Croatan National Forest

Vocabulary for this report:

• Estuary--Water passage where the tide meets the river current (or where freshwater meets saltwater)


• Marsh: Freshwater--Same as saltwater marsh, sans salt.


• Marsh: Salt--Flat land subject to overflow by salt water. (Kimberli's definition: Picturesque "islands" in shallow water near the water's edge. characterized by tall grasses growing in a thick muck often referred to as Pluff Mud. Oyster beds are often seen in the pluff at low tide.


• Maritime--Of, related to, or bordering on the sea.


• Pocosin Lake--Upland swamp of the coastal plain of the SW USA, or "freshwater wetlands dominated by evergreen shrubs, scattered pond pines, and bay trees".


• Pond Pines--Haven't a clue. I think it's a tree.


• Unimproved--Not tilled, built on, or otherwise improved for use.


• Unmarked--Devoid of signage that might give a person a clue as to where they are, or what direction they should go.

Our time in Eastern North Carolina is proving to be both interesting and informative. While our previous outings introduced us to ENC's history and charm, our latest outing flat out challenged us to learn about the unique environment existing along the state's renowned coastline.

Though we've traveled to the aoutheast portion of ENC twice since our arrival, we've yet to adequately explore much of what this region has to offer. Since the roads and restaurants are fast becoming familiar to us, we decided to get a cursory glance of additional interests before moving northward, so we traveled to Croatan National Forest, situated on 150,000 acres between the Neuse, Trent, and White Oak Rivers.

Most of my information about Croatan comes from my exploring north carolina's natural areas, book. Descriptions of wetlands, swamps, natural ponds and lakes, estuaries, a maritime forest, carnivorous plants, and boardwalks over salt marshes captivated me. I wanted to see it all, but with our short Saturday schedule and a three-hour (round-trip) drive, I had to settle for just two destinations. Our first stop: Great Lake. 

IMPORTANT NOTE: taking a small car with low clearance and no four-wheel drive to Great Lake is a big mistake. But I'll get to that in a minute.

Finding Croatan is easy. It's located just south of New Bern on Hwy 70. Finding a way into Croatan is a bit more difficult. Finding Great Lake when one isn't sure how to get into Croatan is almost impossible.

I am The Navigator, and with a good map in hand, I usually do a pretty good job of it. I know even-numbered Interstates and highways indicate the road travels east to west, and odd number goes north to south. I know Interstate exit signs usually correlate to exit numbers (not in all states, but most) and I know it's a good idea to familiarize oneself with the legend on a map to differentiate between two-lane roads and state highways. When I had consulted my worn atlas and didn't find any roads through the forest, I went online. What I missed when I printed the map I found on the NCNatural website was the fact that the "roads" on the map were a faint gray. The legend didn't mention it, so I didn't think about it. Mistake.
There's a reason why the road is faint gray. The road IS gray. Highway or NC or whatever 1100, which cuts through Croatan Forest is unimproved, but it was paradise compared to the rutted sand dune we had to travel over to Great Lake. If I ever get the dings from the gravel out of my car, I'll have to change the struts.
Great Lake is located in the middle of the forest and is a shocking surprise. I'm still trying to get a handle on whether it's a Pocosin lake or if water from pocosins drain into Great Lake. Either way, it was breathtaking. The view from the very secluded parking lot showed waves blowing across a beautiful deep, dark blue lake, like the deep waters of the sea. It was the sapphire in a rock, the diamond in coal, and totally inaccessible without a boat.

We considered walking around the lake in search of a clearing, but Croatan Forest is open to hunters, and this time of year, we passed plenty on the way in. I wore colors that would distinguish me from a deer or a bear in the woods, but why take the chance? So we enjoyed what we could see of the lake, and went to our next destination, Cedar Point Tideland Trail.

The 1.5-mile Cedar Point trail snakes around the White Oak River estuary. I'd read about this area while doing research on salt marshes and was pleased to see it in person. I'm still not sure if both salt- and freshwater marshes are present; I'm still trying to figure out how to tell the difference between the two (other than location. Surely the grass isn't the same in both.)

Unfortunately, Cedar Point was also difficult to find. Since my exploring north carolina book takes explorers on different tours, directions begin from the previous stop, which is Whitehouse Forks Road. And of course, that road isn't well marked. The directions provided on the website where I found the map say, "It can be found by following the (boat ramp) signs on NC Hwy 58, north of it's junction with NC Hwy 24." That would work if NC posted signs for the boat ramp.
So…Kimberli's directions to Cedar Point Tideland Trail: From Hwy 24, travel approximately one mile north on Hwy 58. Turn left on VFW Road. Go straight until you see the parking lot.

Cedar Point trail is a delightful, easy walk and very picturesque. We walked on a dirt trail through a pine-hardwood forest (so says my book) and on boardwalks over the marshes. We saw a white crane and a Blue Heron. The sun shone on the waters of the White Oak River and it was one of those great coastal moments that make the hassle of getting there worth it. I wish we could have stayed longer.

We still have several destinations to visit in Croatan such as Patsy Pond Natural Area and Nature Trail, Haywood Landing at White Oak River, the Island Creek Forest Walk, and more.

Definitions are from Merriam Webster Dictionary and the American Heritage Dictionary