Hunting Island State Park

The ACE is the land within the horseshoe formed by the Ashepoo, Combahee, and Edisto rivers. Carolina Bays pock the northern section of the region1, but along the coast, waterways twist and wind, branching and spreading into the land like tree roots. It is, as the Marine Resources Research Institute calls it, a land of "sea islands, marsh islands, and barrier islands that are interlaced by estuaries, extensive salt marshes, intertidal areas, and oyster reefs."1 The result? Islands spaced beside one another like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle in progress. In an odd coincident, in places, the topography somewhat resembles this canopy of pine that we spotted along the trail:

Within this "Sea Island Complex"1 is Hunting Island. Once a hunting ground for private citizens3, this lush barrier island is now a state park, and it was the first stop on our ACE tour.

Having visited Hunting Island SP in 2005 or 2006, going in we knew to expect a Visitor's Center with a pond and real-live Lowcountry alligator, a marshwalk, and a beautiful lighthouse. We found all but the alligator, but spent little time at most of these attractions. Our goal for this trip was to learn more about the park, and to do so by hiking.

Hunting Island SP has several hiking trails. Two main trails form a long oval, with smaller trails connecting the two at various intervals. From the Visitor's Center, we started on the Maritime Forest Trail, a mixed forest of palmettos and pines, moss-covered oaks twisted with time, with a forest floor covered with what looked like fan palms.

About a quarter mile into the hike, we cut to our left, to the Lagoon Trail. This path runs parallel to a man-made lagoon, where we spotted a pelican flying overhead. A scenic stop on this very scenic route.

We continued on toward the cabins. While at the Visitor's Center, I learned the park no longer accepts reservations for the cabins, as the erosion so prevalent in the coast is quickly claiming the area around the structures. In Coastal South Carolina, Terrance Zepke indicates Hunting Island is eroding both at the northern tip of the island, and at the central beach. Before reaching the path that would take us to the cabins, we cut to the right, crossed the road, and took a tour of the Marshwalk.

Once past the gazebo, we continued on to the tidal creek, where we watched egrets soar over the marsh.

We doubled back and took the Maritime Forest Trail, searching for wildlife as we hiked back to our car. SC's state park site states Hunting Island has "an array of wildlife, ranging from loggerhead sea turtles to painted buntings, barracudas to sea horses, alligators, pelicans, dolphins and deer, raccoons, Eastern diamondback rattlesnakes and even the rare coral snake (I did not know that). We saw an abundance of squirrels, a pelican, and a lone woodpecker. But the forest was a sight to see, and we enjoyed our time on the trail.

But our time at Hunting Island wasn't over. We couldn't leave without seeing the lighthouse.

According to Zepke's Lighthouses of the Carolinas, this structure was built in 1875, and was moved once to avoid erosion. Today, visitors not terrified of heights can walk to the top of the lighthouse for a small fee.

In addition to hiking, boating, bike riding, camping, picnicking, kayaking, or spending time on the beach are other activities one can enjoy at Hunting Island State Park. For more information, including entrance and camping fees, go to www.southcarolinaparks.com/park-finder/state-park/1019.aspx

Hunting Island State Park (SC)

1. http://www.dnr.sc.gov/marine/mrri/acechar/esenviro.htm
2. http://www.beaufortcountylibrary.org/htdocs-sirsi/sea.htm
3. Coastal South Carolina: Welcome to the Lowcountry, Zepke Terrance (Pineapple Press, 2006) p 217

South Carolina's ACE

There is a place of intrinsic beauty, where a lattice of watery tendrils bind the land. There, time idles while a heron takes flight and soars above the marshes, and the sea gathers the rivers like a mother, her young. There, the song of the Gullah is heard in the breeze that caresses the tattered moss hanging from gnarled trees.

It is a haven for majestic creatures in need of refuge. For those who long to feel the Lowcountry in their blood. It is South Carolina's exotic ACE Basin, and I have the privilege of spending three days here to explore, relax, and breathe the qualities that make this region so unique. During our visit, I hope to see lush Hunting Island State Park and the banded lighthouse that keeps watch over SC's southern shores; Beaufort, my favorite waterfront hideaway; Edisto Beach State Park, and the ACE Basin National Wildlife Refuge.

It's far too to much to see in three days, but when I'm in this special place, I want to absorb what I can and take those memories home. This is the heart of the Lowcountry, an estuary of critical importance. This is what I love about South Carolina, and I'm pleased to take you along.

A Final Look at Mattamuskeet

Okay, okay, okay, I know I've done the waterfowl thing to death, but the birds are amazing. And, when it's cold outside, one can view wildlife at Mattamuskeet from inside the warmth of the car—and it's been cold!

For that reason, we took one more trip to the amazing Lake Mattamuskeet before the 09-10 wintering waterfowl season ended. No snow geese (no surprise ) but we saw much as we drove along Hwy 94. Enjoy.

Santee State Park and National Wildlife Refuge

As I mentioned in previous posts, I recently purchased Exploring the Geology of the Carolinas, and I'm beginning to get a clue about some of the unique features hiding beneath the Carolina grass. Having read about them, I'd like to revisit several locations and explore them through more learned eyes.

Santee State Park is one such place. Located on the shores of Lake Marion, Santee SP is home to the half-mile Sinkhole Pond Nature Trail, named for several sinkholes, one of which is located near the trailhead.

Ohhhh. Sinkholes. Exciting, eh?

As it turns out, it's far more interesting than we thought. Had I owned Geology during our visit three years ago, I would have known that around 1842, an English geologist by the name of Charles Lyell visited South Carolina to study the "marl and limestone" and named what he found Santee Limestone. What is the significance? The limestone is prevalent in the area, and obvious at Santee State Park. According to the book, subterranean rivers carve caves through the chiefly calcium carbonate rock. If the roof of those caves—what we call the ground we walk on—is subject to acidic groundwater, over time, the lime dissolves and the caves collapse. And thus we have sinkholes.

Considering the amount of limestone in this area and present along NC's coastal plains—the home of acidic water—I find this fascinating, if not slightly disconcerting.

But Santee offers more than a couple interesting sinkholes. There are four hiking trails in the park, and we started with what had to be the easiest trail in South Carolina—the one mile Pinolly Trail. The path was fairly level and without too many foot obstacles, and we were never too far from the road.

The loop section of the trail was interesting. Where the the main trail was a typical path-through-the-woods trail, this section was swampy. We saw tupelo and bald cypress trees, reminding us that, like Congaree swamp, this part of South Carolina was once primordial floodplain.

We finished the Pinolly Trail in a relatively short time, and then meandered to the shores of Lake Marion.

Afterwards, we headed to the second easiest trail in South Carolina: the one-mile Limestone Nature Trail. Lovely stroll, nice views, and overall, a nice walk.

At 2,500 acres, Santee is "small" compared to other SC parks, but from what we saw, it's well suited for those who like to boat, fish, and camp. In addition to a campground where we saw both RVs and tents, nice cabins are available, including several of which are located on a pier. Before you go, make reservations through South Carolina online reservation system and call the park to confirm.

We spent at least half a day at the park, but we weren't finished with Santee. On another portion of Lake Marion is Santee National Wildlife Refuge. A resting ground for wintering waterfowl, the refuge is also home to an Indian Mound (which British forces used as the foundation for a fort during the first war for independence) and a Carolina Bay. We drove, we hiked, and we saw everything but the birds.

Just another excuse to return. For more information on Santee State Park, go to
www.southcarolinaparks.com/park-finder/state-park/535.aspx

For more information on Santee National Wildlife Refuge, go to
www.fws.gov/refuges/profiles/index.cfm?id=42570

New Year's Day at Pocosin NWF

It is our custom to visit a Carolina destination on New Year's Day. This year, we chose the Pocosin National Wildlife Refuge. During a phone call this past November, a botanist at the refuge office indicated the number of snow geese migrating through the area generally peaks between Christmas and New Year's, so we headed to Pungo in an effort to see the twenty, thirty, or sixty thousand birds that reportedly stop by for a visit.

A bit of a mistake.

Eastern North Carolina has been blessed with an abundance of rain in recent days, and within the refuge, one travels around on a series of dirt roads. We knew it would be muddy, but after twenty-four hours without precipitation, we assumed the water had run off and our Durango could maneuver the resulting caked path. For the most part, it did. Unfortunately, the canals and lower-lying areas were flooded, and in places, the water stretched across the road. One large puddle blocked our way to the observation platform on Hyde Park Road.

We turned around and tried an alternate route, but nearly got stuck in what turned out to be thick, sludgy mud at the obscure west entrance. The trip wasn't without its merits, though. We saw an abundance of birds, and a couple of deer who seemed to be as curious of us as we were of them.

And finally, a few snow geese. Unfortunately, they were fairly high in the sky. The smudges you see on the photo is most likely muddy water:

Pocosin NWR is a great place to view wildlife--when it's dry, or if you have the proper vehicle and a winch. Before you visit, contact the office for road closures, and before hitting any Carolina trail during hunting season, check to see if hunting is permitting on the lands. If so, wear orange.

Raw video of Tundra swans feeding in a local field: