The Search for Pungo (Part I)

I can't give up. Even if a bout of frustration causes me to quit, rarely can I stop all efforts to achieve a goal. So it wasn't a surprise when, after our original outing plans fell through last week, I pulled up Mappoint and Google Earth and set out to find an access point to Pungo Lake.

Twice last year we tried to find this obscure body of water, and twice we failed. Once, our GPS indicated it was beside the dusty road on which we stood. Having seen it as a destination in my exploring north carolina book, as well as other resources, I knew it had to have an entrance. But where? After zooming in and scooting the image left, right, up and down on both digital maps, I found two potential access points to the lake. I set the GPS for one and my iTouch maps app for the other.

And we found it: http://tinyurl.com/PungoEntrances (click on aerial).

Pungo Lake is part of the 110,000+ acre Pocosin National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge is nestled between Highways 99 and 94, moving south from Phelps Lake, and extending to New Lake (a.k.a. Alligator Lake). Need a visual to get your bearings? Click here for a map.

If the refuge name sounds familiar, think back to the North Carolina wildfires of 2008. The pocosin forest just north of Pungo caught fire, which burned deep into the peat that makes up the forest floor. Though the wildfire blanketed the state with thick smoke (and chased us to Richmond, Virginia) I recently learned that, like the longleaf pine forest, fire is beneficial to this natural community. Many plant species that exists in a pocosin thrive from it.

But that's another natural communities blog post. For now, let's continue down the road.

The refuge, and thus Pungo Lake, is located on the Albemarle-Pamlico Peninsula. The large center "flap" on the coastal plains if you're looking at a map. On each of our visits, I'm struck by the order that now pervades a land once covered in tangled shrubs. Originally inhabited by Algonquin-speaking natives, and after years of rigorous taming, farmland, boxed off by deep ditches, creates a quilted look visible from plane windows or satellite images. Tilled rows lead the eye to a line of longleaf pines in the distance.

We had unexpected company on this trip. Following directions dished out by our GPS, we drove east on Hwy 264, then turned north on Hwy 99 in the heart of charming Pantego. After turning right onto Hwy 45, we spotted an impressive flock of large, white birds resting in the midst of winter wheat. Though we suspected we'd found more Tundra Swans--yet still hoping we'd found the elusive snow geese--we pulled off the road near a couple taking pictures beside a truck.

Yes, I have a picture, but I didn't know about it until we returned home. Therefore I didn't have a chance to secure permission to post it. Next time.

No one hauling kayaks and cameras on a Carolina trail is a stranger, so after taking pics of the *sighs* swans, we introduced ourselves to Steve and Gail, birders from the Durham area. Ironically, they were looking for Pungo.

They followed us, which, if you're a regular reading, you know isn't a good idea. Though I have maps galore and a good Carolina atlas, we often guess at a route or say "hey, I wonder where this goes". Apparently, my preparations and the routes we showed them on both machines convinced them we knew where we were going. Fortunately, it worked out this time (thank you, Lord) and before long, the four of us were standing on an observation platform staring at the gorgeous blue waters of Pungo Lake.

A Not Quite Stitched-Together View of Lake Pungo

Next Post: Pungo

Glimpses of Richmond, VA

Last week, we headed to nearby Richmond, Virginia to see what adventures we could find there. We soon discovered it would take a long time to answer that question.

Our first stop was a spot just outside the downtown area because that's where Moe's Southwest Grill is located, and we love Moe's. On the way there and back, we passed the first college we would see that day. As it turns out, Richmond is home to several colleges, and we saw four on this outing. The buildings and campuses alone are worth the visit.

After lunch, and after getting stuck in the University of Richmond's traffic while taking a driving tour of the campus, we headed downtown. Though we traveled to the area last summer, it was our first visit to Richmond proper, and we were unfamiliar with the layout of the city and with the culture. Having explored several southern towns, I expected similar elements in architecture styles and, hmm, well, tourism. There would be a carriage ride, right? None that we could find, but we did see fabulous architecture, ivy-covered walls and garden, and street after street of the most attractive townhouses I've seen:



We also spotted several churches built in a vernacular of styles (a fellow author gave me that line):


We passed several old homes as well, also built in a variety of styles from Georgian to those boasting classic Roman elements:



You may have noticed a plethora of cars in most of the photos. Traffic in downtown Richmond is snarly, at least on a Friday afternoon, making photographing subjects sans vehicles nearly impossible. Sightseeing, too. Cars are parked on each side of narrow streets, and, unfamiliar with the territory, we had a difficult time navigating around the area. We checked out a few more places, including historic Union Seminary, and left before rush hour hit.

Despite the traffic frustrations, we learned much. In Richmond rests Tuckahoe, the boyhood home of Thomas Jefferson. Along the banks of the James and the Appomattox Rivers, you'll find historic plantations including, Shirley Plantation, where Robert E Lee's mother grew up. In various spots around the region, you'll happen on battlefields where major skirmishes were fought. Also nearby, St Johns Church, the scene of Patrick Henry's famous "Liberty or Death" speech.

Scenic Hollywood Cemetery lay in the midst of downtown Richmond, and just twenty minutes away, you'll find Pocahontas State Park, which has over five miles of hiking trails in addition to camping, fishing, boating, biking and bridle trails (bring your own stuff).

The most important lesson of the day was that Richmond has potential, and in addition to learning more about the architecture of the city, we look forward to visiting all of these outdoor destinations.

And eating at Moe's again. Gosh, we love that place.

Lake Waccamaw State Park

If you're walking in Dixie, the Carolinas in particular, you may be walking across a mystery. No, not an unmarked grave or Blackbeard's hidden treasure.

Well, you may be strolling over the treasure since no one knows where Blackbeard hid the stash. But I'm talking about a Carolina Bay.

Acre(s)-large, mostly elliptical, and predominantly situated northwest/southeast, Carolina Bays exist by the thousands below the Mason Dixon line and can be seen on aerial photos and satellite shots such as this Google Earth image:

Carolina Bays Have Made An Impression on Bladen County, NC

Named after the sweet-, red-, and loblolly bay trees that often grow in the sandy rims around these indentions, most bays are unnoticeable in everyday life unless you live in Bladen County, NC, which is home to nearly a thousand of them, or if you travel to Lake Waccamaw, the largest Carolina Bay in NC.

These geological marvels are a mystery to me, so I can't begin to explain the theories of their origin, common elements among bays, soil make up, efforts to restore them, etc. If you can't stand the not-knowing, I've provided several links to helpful resources at the bottom of this page. Hop on down there or stick around while I finally get to the subject of this post...

Lake Waccamaw State Park is located in southeast NC, southeast(ish) of Lumberton and west of Wilmington. Finding it is easy if you're not using a GPS. Our dear device tried to send us over dirt and gravel paths instead of perfectly acceptable paved roads. So if you're heading to Lake Waccamaw, compare your GPS's suggested route to an atlas, and follow the atlas if need be. If you don't have a GPS, North Carolina has provided excellent directions on their Lake Waccamaw State Park site at www.ncparks.gov/Visit/parks/lawa/directions.php

This attractive park offers the usual array of activities: picnicking, camping, fishing, and--to our immense pleasure--hiking. During this visit, we hiked at least four miles of the park's nine or so mile trail system, traversing primarily on sandy soil alongside the lake, under tattered Spanish moss. We stopped at the park's 375-foot pier, enjoyed the view, and then followed the Pine Woods Trail back to the Visitor's Center, where one can freshen up in clean restrooms.

Boating is an option as well, but ramps aren't available in the park. However, public access ramps are located nearby. NC Parks recommends contacting the Wildlife Resource Commission for more information.

In addition to the serene beauty and the knowledge of walking alongside a mysterious Carolina Bay, visitors to Lake Waccamaw may see wildlife including birds and alligators--seriously--and plantlife. Home to ancient cypress trees, the lake is at the edge of the biological preserve, Green Swamp. That in itself indicates botanical wonders, but the water holds another secret.

Bodies of water that originate in the coastal plains are black and acidic thanks to ubiquitous cypress trees. From my new acquisition, The Natural Traveler: Along North Carolina's Coast, we learned a limestone outcropping along the northern shore gives the waters of Lake Waccamaw a near neutral pH. As a result, unusual aquatic and plant life exist in this area, the latter of which may be visible along the trail. That new fact calls for more research--and a return trip with fellow CarolinasAdventurers.

For more information on Lake Waccamaw's unique ecology, visit http://www.ncparks.gov/Visit/parks/lawa/ecology.php

As usual with the waters of the coast, the recommended method of exploring is by kayak or canoe. So if you have either, take a trip to Lake Waccamaw and, as The Natural Traveler recommends, consider exploring the Waccamaw River while you're there. We've yet to venture into either method of water exploration, but soon. Very soon.

Below is a slideshow of a few pictures we took on this trip. No show-stoppers, but it's a decent journal of what we saw. For more information on Lake Waccamaw and the Carolina Bays, check out the links at the end of this post.

Lake Waccamaw
http://org.elon.edu/geo/waccamaw.htm

Carolina Bays
www.fws.gov/seweecenter/text/carolinabays.pdf
www.ces.clemson.edu/scmaps/manual/pdfmanual/chap8.pdf
Nature Conservancy Carolina Bay Preserves

Bay Images:

http://abob.libs.uga.edu/bobk/cbaymbm.jpg
http://www.ces.clemson.edu/semaps/nc/cbay.html
http://abob.libs.uga.edu/bobk/cbaymbsc.html

Savannah River Queen's Sightseeing Tour

Relive a bygone era...

So the brochure for the Savannah River Queen states. That and the sight of that majestic boat floating on the Savannah River reinforced every notion we had about the trip, and as one who loves Savannah, it pains me to admit we had a horrendous experience. But stick with me, because I have what I hope is good news.

We traveled to Savannah last week for a conference on, of all things, architecture (so fitting for that grand town.) While there, I indulged in what I promise you was research for my novel-in-progress. A pivotal scene takes place in Savannah, and I had to experience several things first-hand--including a ride on the riverboat. After the conference, we went to ballast-stone covered River Street and purchased two tickets for the one-hour narrated tour on the Savannah River Boat Queen.

I was thrilled. Long ago I took a ride on the Belle of Louisville and the experience left me wanting more. This was my husband's first such ride, and I'd hoped it would be as special. After boarding, we went to the promenade deck (via steep steps. The boat doesn't have an elevator) and settled at a table on a covered patio. But while the brochure talks of tales and historic facts and a river once used by founders, in reality, we went past factories, warehouses, and the biggest pile of scrap metal we've ever seen:



And the captain talked about each of these as we went. This was so far from the romanticized version I had, and had written in my novel, that I was almost sick. Though my husband tells me the queasiness may have been caused by the fumes from a passing refinery. I know the particles had me coughing a time or two.

So was there an upside to the cruise? We did see a few interesting sights:

And of course, the view of River Street from the boat is worth climbing those steps:


But at $18.95 a person, it simply isn't worth the price.

So what's the good news? I called the company today and found out the captain doesn't always head toward the industry section. At times, they sail eastward toward Fort Pulaski.

After what we went through, I had to ask. "Why don't they go in that direction all the time?" I'm told it depends on river traffic and, "there isn't anything to see." The rep I spoke to obviously didn't take the refinery tour.

But there's more good news. The Riverboat Company, which runs the boat, offers longer dinner, brunch, Gospel, and--this has to be the best--moonlight cruises. Imagine that boat lit up like a grand chandelier skimming over dark waters. Could anything be more romantic? While I haven't yet taken any of these tours, judging from our experience, they should provide the passenger with distractions that will help make the cruise a memorable one.

Which is good for my novel, since my characters are taking the dinner cruise. Guess what direction the captain chooses on that trip!

Would I take another ride on the Savannah River Queen? If it were the dinner or moonlight cruise, if I knew we would be heading east, and if I had a coupon (I'm cheap), I would be willing to give it another try. So don't totally discount this attraction. Just be aware of what you may encounter.

If I didn't talk you out of it, for more information on Savanna River Queen tours, go to www.savannahriverboat.com/

And be prepared to ask questions.