Currituck Banks and Jockey's Ridge State Park

For the past year, we've been exploring eastern NC from the Fall Zone to the shores just off the Outer Banks. We've learned quite a bit during our outings. However, drawing on a quote I once read (the author of which I cannot remember) we've been jumping from parapet to parapet, and after a year of this, it was time to slow down and explore the castle's nooks and crannies.

We recently attempted to do that with a trip to Currituck Banks. It's a three and a half hour drive for us, so to maximize our time, we drove up on a Thursday evening and spent the night in Kitty Hawk. Depending on the hotel, the rates are fabulous on the Outer Banks right now, and we snagged a room for less than seventy dollars using our AAA discount.

The goal for this trip: explore Currituck National Wildlife Refuge and see the wild horses that roam the northern tip of the Outer Banks. Easier said. Hwy 12 ends at a beach, which is the entrance for the refuge. I presumed the sand would be packed down because this is the only way into the refuge and people have been driving on it for years.

Wrong. The sand is soft and deeply rutted, and after dishing out over a hundred dollars to fix our four wheel drive after the Mattamuskeet incident, Kelley was a bit nervous about attempting an off-road expedition. We gave it a shot, though. But when the ruts got deeper (and without our CarolinasAdventure posse there to push if we got stuck) we turned around.

The good news: various tours are available. I'd checked out the Jeep tours but they were too expensive for our current budget. Kayaking, and guided van tours are also available. This place is worth exploring, so we intend to return in the spring and take one of those tours.

Once back on paved ground, we stopped at the Currituck Banks National Estuarine Research Reserve, located within a few steps of the refuge's beach entrance. I'd read about this place in The Natural Traveler: Along North Carolina's Coast and knew we'd find a .33 mile boardwalk through the maritime forest that grows along the Outer Banks. Not what we had in mind but it would do.

To our delight, halfway down the boardwalk we found a mile and a half (round trip) nature trail that leads into a forest consisting predominantly of wax myrtle and live oaks, transitioning to pine near the water. The live oaks in this forest are amazing. Long, thin arms rest their elbows on the ground and then twist imploringly into the sky. The trunked sculptures stretched outward throughout the woods, pushing back other trees and providing space that allowed the winter light to shine through.

Blue blazes mark the trail. Note, we believe at least one sign is missing at a turn, and it gets a bit confusing in this area. If this happens to you, stop or backtrack if you can and look carefully. You should spot the blue-tipped stick a bit further down the path.

While enjoying the walk through the quiet forest, we came upon a pile of horse excrement. This often happens along a trail so I didn't think anything of it. By the forth pile, I finally caught on. Be still my Carolina heart, the wild horses roam through that area! Unfortunately, we didn't see any while hiking, or at the end of the trail where it meets Currituck Sound, but we saw plenty of evidence of their existence in that area.

After finishing that trail, we continued down the boardwalk to the observation platform overlooking marshes, Currituck Sound, and Monkey Island. The Estuarine is a good example of several types of natural environments: maritime forest, transitional forest, swamp, and marsh. From Natural Traveler, I learned North Carolina has four types of marshes: freshwater, brackish water, high saltwater and low saltwater. The marsh of Currituck Sound is an example of a low marsh, which floods daily with the tides. No wonder it's a research area!

Next, we made a quick stop at Currituck Lighthouse, situated in historic Corolla Village. After moving to ENC, I learned the four lighthouses of the OBX are similar in design, down to the wood and stone pilings they're built on. They're painted with different patterns so approaching mariners could distinguish one from the other. The Lighthouse Board left Currituck au naturale. The theory is this was to avoid having to paint it in the future. It was a good decision. Though built in 1875, Currituck is an attractive structure.

With time on our hands after not exploring the refuge, we made an unexpected stop at Jockey's Ridge, located in Nags Head. With its desert ambiance, tall dunes, wildlife that often roams the sand, and sparse vegetation, this destination deserves its own blog post. But more research and another visit is needed before I can attempt that. For now, I'll say that though around four hundred and twenty acres, the park is larger than I expected. Kelley hiked on while I stopped and took pictures, and at times, he was a speck atop the sand. Can you spot him in this photo?

At the top of that ridge, we were treated to a breathtaking view of a shaft of sunlight slicing across Currituck Sound. That view along with the 360 perspective makes the effort worth the climb. This being the highest spot, I assume it's also used for hang gliding and sandboarding, which are permissible under certain circumstances. The park has a hang gliding school, but I'll save that for the next post.

There are two "trails" at Jockey's Ridge: the one-mile Soundside Natural Trail, and the one-and-a-half mile Tracks in the Sand. But with all that sand, it's hard to tell exactly where the path is. We simply walked toward our destination.

As an added bonus, Jockey's Ridge runs perpendicular to the path of the sun and the shifting shadows along the dunes would make for some interesting photography in the early morning or late in the afternoon. Yes, we're definitely going back.

All in all a decent day despite not seeing the Outer Bank ponies.

So whether you're looking for a vacation spot or a nice getaway, the northern tip of the Outer Banks around Nags Head and Corolla is a great place to go. There's much to see and in the low season, hotel prices can be quite reasonable. Hope to see you there.

Currituck Banks and Jockey’s Ridge, Outer Banks

For more on Currituck NWR, go to
www.wildernet.com/pages/area.cfm?areaID=NCCNNW&CU_ID=1

For more info on the Reserve, go to www.outerbanks.com/CurrituckBanksCoastalEstuarineReserve/

For more on Jockey's Ridge, go to
www.ncparks.gov/Visit/parks/jori/main.php

Snow and an Eastern NC Sunset

Eastern NC had a treat last week when two to several inches of snow fell on us, turning fallow fields into thick, white blankets, and blackwater swamps into winter wonderlands. I'm told the snow fell as far as Nags Head on the Outer Banks.

We ventured out a bit, but like all good southerners should, we didn't travel far on the unfamiliar slick stuff. And of course, I took pictures. So for the record, here are images of eastern NC during a snow storm:





Apparently not fully content with that treat, we traveled back to NC's largest Pocosin on Friday to see if those snow geese finally arrived (after all, the snow had.) They haven't, and I've reached the conclusion they're not coming en masse this year. Though disappointed--again--we did witness another spectacular Mattamuskeet sunset. That alone was worth the drive:


Don't you agree?

Thank you, Our State

A few months ago, Our State magazine asked readers to share the reasons they love North Carolina. I couldn't pass up that request, so I entered a short blurb naming things dear to my heart from the mountains to the sea.

Today I received both the February issue of Our State and a call from the editorial office informing me they printed my essay, but accidentally attributed it to the wrong person. While disappointed, I'm honored they felt my entry worthy of inclusion in their "Why We Love North Carolina" spread. Thank you, Our State.

So if you have the February issue, turn to page 116. After you read Loretta Oxendine's Fresh Catch article, check out the sidebar on the right, attributed to DeeAnn Johns. Those are just a few of the reason I love North Carolina. The rest are in this blog.

--Kimberli

Charleston, South Carolina

By looking at this blog, you'd never know Charleston, SC is our favorite city. We first visited that stately town shortly after moving to the Carolinas five years ago. We go back every chance we get.

What we love about Charleston--beside the architecture, the history, the scenic location between the Ashley and Cooper Rivers, and the convenience to nearby barrier islands--is the proximity of activities in the Historic District. Park on Market Street and from there, take a carriage ride, (which I highly recommend) a guided walking tour, or a ghost tour (I don't believe in ghosts, but it's a lot of fun.) Or shop in the Slave Market where you'll find the famous baskets made by third and fourth generation basket makers (note, the baskets are quite expensive because they're handmade. If you buy one, ask what it's made of. Sweetgrass is getting harder to find and basket makers are using other materials. The vendors have been up front about it when I ask, so don't hesitate.) And all this from Market Street!

What do you in the Historic District depends on what subject you want to explore. Pick history one day and after you learn about Charleston's role in the Revolutionary War and the War Between the States, search for the graves of Stede Bonnet and other pirates hung at White Point Garden, then take a boat to Fort Sumpter (note: the island visible in the near distance from the Battery is the abandoned Castle Pinckney, not Fort Sumpter.) Or learn about the great fire of 1861, or the great earthquake of 1886. Don't forget to visit the Citidel, both old and new. Older is more interesting (to me) because it's now an attractive park in the Historic District.

Choose architecture the next day and take tours of the Miles Brewton house, where Mary Pringle (Mary's World) lived, then head to Rainbow Row, the Battery, the Old Exchange, St Micheal's Church and a plethora of other homes and houses of worship. You'll see two- and three-story Italianates. You'll also spot One Room houses, which the original owners built sideways on the lot for tax purposes. Piazzas (verandas) with wrought iron balustrades are everywhere, and add to the city's charm.

For the kids, visit attractions such as the SC Aquarium (ask if you can have a tour of the sea turtle hospital) or spend time at nearby Waterfront Park.

Outside of the Historic District, the plantations including Boone Hall and Magnolia Plantation and Gardens are wonderful spots to visit:

Check for entrance fees before you go. If you're in the mood for sand and waves, visit Folly Beach. While there, go to the tip of the island and see Morris Lighthouse. Sullivan Island has a lighthouse as well (though not as attractive.) Eco-tours are available on the Isle of Palms, stomping grounds of author, Mary Alice Monroe, one of the many sea turtle volunteers on that island.

Hungry? Eat at Sticky Fingers, whether in Mount Pleasant where Boone Hall is located, or downtown on Meeting Street. We always eat at A.W. Shucks on Market Street or--just for fun--Bubba Gumps, also on Market. Some folks love Jestine's Kitchen, but Charleston and the surrounding area is flooded with good restaurants serving great Lowcountry food.

One sight we've yet to see is the Angel Oak on John's Island. Click on the link to see a picture of the old oak tree, which has captured the attention of thousands: www.scangeloaktree.com/

Just another excuse to return.

For more information on Charleston and the surrounding area, check out the following links:

Charleston www.charleston.com/
Folly Beach www.follybeach.com/
Boone Hall boonehallplantation.com/

Island Creek Forest Walk, Croatan National Forest

Eastern North Carolina has more hiking trails than I realized. In addition to trails at the various ENC state parks and on Bogue Banks, we recently learned Croatan National Forest has over twenty miles of hiking trails within its boundaries. Last year, we visited Great Lake and the Cedar Point Tideland Trail on the southwest side of Croatan at the White Oak Estuary, and a few weeks ago, we found the Island Creek Forest Walk, located in the far reaches of northeast Croatan.

Both exploring north carolina's natural areas and The Natural Traveler: Along North Carolina's Coast state this trail is a half-mile nature loop. However, the map we found stapled to a tree indicates it intersects with other trails not listed in the books, and that the entire system is a much longer Island Creek Trail:

Not knowing this in advance (and recuperating from the stomach flu) we settled for the half mile loop on this occasion. Since we forgot it was hunting season, that was probably a good choice.

But curious about the remaining trail system, I later called the Ranger Station in New Bern and was told only the half-mile loop that you see at the bottom right of the map is associated with Croatan. Local residents are responsible for the rest, as well as that map, so take caution when straying off the national forest's trail!

Island Creek is a great choice for a fast escapism hike. After parking in the small, gravel parking area located on Brice Creek Rd (SR 1004) we entered the trailhead and instantly left the world behind. Fallen leaves covered the mostly level path, but white blazes and numbered signs kept us on track. Besides an occasional shotgun blast in the near distance, we heard only the crunch of the leaves beneath our feet and an occasional bird chirp. Natural Traveler says this area is known to host pileated and hairy woodpeckers, but besides a few trees that looked as if they served as target practice for bored hunters, we didn't see either.

Nor did we find the pamphlets that correspond to the numbers posted along the trail, and I'm sorry we didn't. Through the bare trees we spotted what I felt were an unusual amount of ferns growing along the forest floor for this time of year. If these ferns are uncommon for the region, then according to exploring north carolina, they're the result of a change in pH created by the limestone present along Island Creek, the outcroppings of which various sources (including fellow CA member, Kelvin Taylor. Thanks, KT) report you can spot along the banks.


What else is out there? Much, including the knobby "gnome" knees of a plethora of cypress trees, which stand along the forest floor and in the middle of the trail, often hidden by the ground cover. So beware while walking.

And a tiny blue stuffed hippo.

Go figure.

If you're in the New Bern area, and you're in the mood for a relaxing, albeit quick hike, check out Island Creek Forest Walk. But if it's hunting season, don't forget to wear orange. And watch out for hippopotamuses.

For more on the Island Creek Forest Walk, to to
http://ncnatural.com/NCUSFS/Croatan/

A Special Thank You

I often encourage people to be aware of their surroundings and to be prepared for the unexpected when they're exploring the great outdoors. Nature doesn't give a hoot about liability, and when you step in its boundaries, you do so at your own risk.

We received another reminder of this on New Year's Day. While exploring the southeast portion of Lake Mattamuskeet with fellow CarolinasAdventurers, our car got stuck in the ubiquitous peaty mud of the pocosin (South Carolinians, think pluff mud):

Each of us had cell phones. Unfortunately, a cell phone signal was not to be had in that isolated area.

I'd like to thank Darryl Wilson and Lyn Luersen of Cool Water Photography in Wilmington/Summerfield (http://www.coolwaterphotography.com/) and a couple whose name I can't remember though I asked them twice (Bob and Ann?) and their son, Leland for interrupting their New Year's Day celebration to lend us their time, opinions, muscles, and a shovel. As you can see, it helped:



I wish I could say that was the end of our misadventure, but when the five of us bundled back into the car, we discovered it was stuck in four wheel drive--low. Since we couldn't call for help, we had to drive to a repair shop. This trek should have ruined our transmission, but, thank the Lord, we lost only the bushing around the drive shaft and two rods.

You'd think we'd be upset, but we're not. It gave us a good laugh. Though we had to cut the outing short, we had a great time with our fellow CarolinasAdventurers. We also had a chance to meet a couple of North Carolina photographers and to see people band together to help others. What better way to start the new year?

Helping Hands

So thank you Darryl and Lyn, and the nice couple whose names I should know. May the Lord bless y'all for your kindness.