Stop Nine on Charleston's Museum Mile

Charleston has a wonderful creature they call Museum Mile. It is as the name implies: a one-mile section that contains a series of buildings filled with history as rich as the food on a Lowcountry plate. I'm a little embarrassed to admit we'd yet to step into one of these treasuries—the haint blue roof we prefer to stay under is generally the sky. But we abandoned that policy on our last visit to check out a place I learned about in 2004, but couldn't enter because it was closed to the public. It recently opened, so my husband and I drove south on Meeting Street, then traversed the uneven cobblestones on Chalmers to reach what was once a showcase of human flesh. No, not a closed strip joint. Charleston's Old Slave Mart.*

If you're like my husband, discomfort just crawled up your spine. Though I'm what my daughter calls whiter-than-bright-white-copy-paper, I'd passed that stage long ago while doing research for my first and, unfortunately, badly written novel—you have to start somewhere—about a young woman subjected to a life of forced labor and personal rejection by virtue of her birth. Part of the story takes place in Charleston, and one scene occurs in the Slave Mart. Though I have no plans to revise the story (you can't fix broke) I had to get inside, to see if reality matched what I'd envisioned, and to learn about the auctions that once took place there.

"Come on," you might say. "Of all the neat places in Charleston, why focus on that one? It's not even an attractive building. Are you just trying to be politically correct?"

The only PC I like is my laptop. But like so many places around the world, Charleston and slavery are inextricably linked, and while we went in expecting major condemnation, we found a sorrowful, but surprisingly evenhanded and informative look at the history of slavery, and the old mart's role in it.

We weren't permitted to take photos inside, so I can't give you a glimpse of the narrow interior (basically the width of the facade you see in the photo) that was once part of a four-building complex widely known as Ryan's Mart. The building on Chalmers, pictured above, served as the "showroom", not the caged holding area I wrote it to be. On display there now are placards and relics that taught us how the mart was run, how the slaves were brought in, and about the people involved on all ends including the "free blacks" who purchased slaves of their own. They even offer near-ancient audio recordings of interviews with former slaves. It was the beginning of the broader scope presented, and though the admission price is $7.00/adult at this writing, (but we are talking Charleston's Historic District), I highly recommend this stop, as well as the remainder of Museum Mile, for all who long to know Charleston more intimately.

For more information on the Old Slave Mart, go to
www.nps.gov/nr/travel/charleston/osm.htm

For more information on Charleston's Museum Mile, go to
www.charlestonsmuseummile.org/Home.html

And since I mentioned it, I should include the Slave Mart scene that I originally wrote. And I will, as soon as I figure out where I hid the file.

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*Not to be confused with the covered vendor area known as the Slave Market on the corner of Market and Meeting.

Copyright 2009. All Rights Reserved. Do not use or distribute

Lowcountry

Last month, we traveled to Columbia, SC for a conference, and of course, we couldn't drive straight home. South Carolina has far too many destinations to explore.

Our first stop was an overnight stay at Daniels Island, just to the northeast of the Charleston peninsula. I've visited Daniels Island on several occasions to attend functions at a corporation located there, and find it both charming and odd. Situated between two of Charleston's major rivers, Daniels Island is a newly (in Lowcountry terms) developed, upscale community complete with homes, golf courses, parks, walking trails, restaurants, corporations and more. However, since it is a Master Community, the buildings and streets have a continuity that tends toward the Disney-resort feel. And while a nice place to stay because of its conveniences, cleanliness, and proximity to I-526, it lacks, in part, the weathered look and Gullah influence that gives the Charleston area its unique flavor.

After a night at the Hampton Inn on Daniels Island, we packed up and headed into Charleston. We've traveled to this historic city on numerous occasions, as reported in several blog posts. There is much to do there and in the surrounding towns, but despite our roaming tendencies, I'm a creature of habit and prefer to stick with the familiar. So today was "Try Something New Day".

An overdue visit to Boone Hall was on the table, along with a trip to something on the map called Raven's Run (turned out to be a private, gated community) and Dewees Island (alas, also a private community.) But we headed into Charleston and drove around parts of the city we've never seen. Charleston's charm never ceases to amaze me.

We also took a tour of the old slave mart (not to be confused with the Slave Market on Market Street.) But that deserves its own post, so more on that later. Afterwards, we headed to the waterfront. Between the SC Aquarium and the Battery is a serene park complete with fountain and pier. We spent time there, taking pictures and watching boats sail near Castle Pinckney, then we went to the Fleet Landing Restaurant for lunch.

It's a shame it took this long to find the Fleet Landing. Located on Concord St, just north of the pier, the simple white building has a good view of the Cooper, good service, and good food with prices that fit most budgets. Since today was "Try Something New", instead of sticking with gumbo or crab cakes, I ordered the special: pan-seared redfish, Charleston red rice, and the veggie of the day. Absolutely mouth watering. I even tried the veggie, which, unfortunately, turned out to be collards. My first taste. Eaten with red rice, it was palatable.

Another relaxing day in the South Carolina Lowcountry. We headed home, but I ached to stop of one of the many destinations along the way: Mt. Pleasant, Francis Marion National Forest, Cape Romain, Georgetown, Pawleys Island, Huntington Beach State Park, Brookgreen Gardens and of course, Murrells Inlet. All located along South Carolina's Hwy 17.

We did make a brief stop at Litchfield Books, located on Hwy 17 in Pawleys Island. We visit the shop whenever we're in the Murrells Inlet area because of their nice selection of regional books. On this occasion, I purchased George Washington's Guide to the Waccamaw Neck and Georgetown. From the pages I leafed through while at the store, it was clear this locally written, locally published volume contains history about this area that I'd not yet encountered.

So much to see. So much to learn. Just another day in South Carolina's exotic Lowcountry.

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Copyright 2009. All Rights Reserved. Do not use or distribute.

The Pumpkin Patch

It's autumn! And while the leaves on this side of the state stubbornly refuse to dress in fall colors, days are turning crisp and nights, cold. In the mood for hot apple cider, hearty soup, and anything that celebrates the season, we went to a local farm for a hay ride to a pumpkin patch. Which? I'd prefer not to say for reasons you'll soon see.

My husband quickly noticed the pumpkins were spaced fairly evenly, and were concentrated near the road.

Then he noticed they'd been cut from the vine. How convenient!

We learned something. As silly as it sounds, before we went, we should have called and asked if the owners grew the pumpkins directly on the farm, or if they'd been imported.

Oops! I half wonder if the bloom we found belonged to the pumpkin family:

No matter. We enjoyed the hayride, finding a pumpkin, and watching the smiles and laughter of several children on board. The time together and enjoying a cool autumn day on a pumpkin patch was worth the three dollar per person fee. And yes, we bought a pumpkin.

What can I say, I love fall. Happy autumn, dear readers!

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Copyright 2009. All Rights Reserved. Do not use or distribute.

Wishlist: Autumn Train Ride Through the Mountains

It's autumn in the mountains, and pictures of layered peaks covered with a tapestry of burnt orange, red, and yellow leaves are popping up on blogs and outdoor-related forums. It's my favorite time of year, and it also reminds me of something we've yet to do: take a scenic train ride through the mountains.

If you're interested as well, and if you'll be in western North Carolina or the Smoky Mountains in the next week or so, check out passenger rates and schedules at http://www.gsmr.com/ And then let me know if it's as wonderful as I think it will be.

Northampton County Nature Trail

While perusing The North Carolina Birding Trail: Coastal Plain Trail Guide at a bookstore in Currituck earlier this year, a photo similar to the one above caught our eye. We're not birders—yet—but after browsing through the spiral bound, semi-gloss paperback complete with descriptions, directions, and photos, we quickly concluded it was another rich source in which to find Carolina trails.

And we love Carolina trails.

So last week, we set our GPS to the coordinates listed on page 37 (in lieu of getting lost trying to find this semi-obscure destination using a map), and headed north on I-95.

As the birding guide indicates, the trailhead for the approximately three-quarter mile trail is just off the parking lot of the J.W. Faison Administrative Building in Jackson, NC. After parking, we stepped on the gravel path which instantly transported us from rural surely-there's-a-Hardee's-nearby (I live in such an area, so I can talk!) to a predominantly hardwood forest.

A short distance from the trailhead, the path splits. We bore to the right, and walked in a quiet broken only by an occasional chittering of a bird or a distant hum of a car. Along with a few autumn blooms, benches sat along the trail, allowing visitors to rest or to wait for passing wildlife. We spotted an abundance of deer tracks in the gravel, both crossing the road and sometimes, following it.

After rounding the bend of the looped trail, we came upon a change of scenery: to our left, a picnic area in a clearing. And to our right, peeking out from some brush was the entrance to the boardwalk I'd seen in the bird guide.

If we'd packed our lunch, we would have sat beneath the covered pavilion and watched for one of the many birds known to inhabit these woods. Instead, we opted for the boardwalk and walked into what had to be one of the most scenic areas between Medoc Mountain and Merchant Millpond: the beaver pond.

Shallow, tannic-stained water created what felt like a lagoon. We didn't spot any birds at that time, but it was the heat of the day. We stayed awhile, enjoying the solitude and the scenery formed by cypress trees and other vegetation growing in the water, some with a touch of autumn in their leaves. What a fantastic place to spend time either birding, painting, or just taking pictures.

Once back on the trail, we turned right and continued on the loop, stopping to take photos of a few autumn wildflowers before heading back to our car. This is yet another place we need to check for waterfowl during the winter, or maybe just stop by for another scenic stroll. As the bird guide said, the Northampton Trail is a gem hidden away in eastern North Carolina.

For more information on the Northampton County Nature Trail, check out The North Carolina Birding Trail: Coast Plains Trail Guide, or contact the Northampton Co Cooperative Extension.

Click here for Webshots Slideshow (opens new window)

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Copyright 2009. All Rights Reserved. Do not use or distribute.

FTC and Freebies

Official Disclosure:

You may have heard the FTC recently ruled bloggers must disclose whether or not they've been compensated for a review or endorsement. For the record, neither me nor my husband receive anything in exchange for the information in these posts. Not free admission or subscriptions, money, books, or promises. I haven't even installed Google Ads yet. We pay our own way because we love to explore the Carolinas.

The only thing that's free is the information we share with you (though we'd appreciate it if you'd leave the photos and text here. Don't take it with you!)

The fact that people stop by is my only reward. So thank you for your support.

Kimberli
Blog Creator and Hostess of Carolina Towns and Trails