Gettysburg Battlefield

What does Gettysburg have to do with the Carolinas? Besides the fact that many southerns died there, and a North Carolina memorial now stands on the grounds, we visited the landmark during a recent trip to beautiful Pennsylvania.

My husband was scheduled to attend a conference just south of Harrisburg, so we crossed the Mason-Dixon a day early to explore the region. Our first stop: Gettysburg Battlefield, located just north of the Maryland-Pennsylvania border.

What I know about this battle is far less than I should--that it was fought between July 1-July 3, 1863, that it was a major offensive on northern soil, that pneumonia had taken Robert E. Lee's "right hand" just months earlier, and that by the end, many had died. But like Bentonville Battlefield, what I saw made me want to know more. I want to learn about the Tammany Regiment, about the High Water Mark, to figure out if having to defend their families and land with their lives showed them why southerners felt they had to do the same, even southerners like Stonewall Jackson, who, before the war, had hoped that cooler heads would prevail and the Union would be preserved.

I know, that surprised me as well.

We spent about an hour on the battlefield, reading plaques, climbing the spiral steps of the mammoth Pennsylvania Memorial, where we stood, higher than is comfortable for me, gazing over the grounds. We didn't know about the auto tour then. Instead, we headed to the Visitors Center, which closed ten minutes before our arrival. But we picked up a map at a kiosk in the event we could return on this visit.

The auto tour starts at the Visitors Center and has sixteen stops, based on the battle's progression. The first stop is McPherson Ridge, where the fighting began. The last stop is National Cemetery, the site of Lincoln's famous address, delivered on November 19, 1863. I'm told the light and sound "Cyclorama Experience" at the Visitors Center shouldn't be missed (tickets required). So that's on the list. In addition to that attraction, the Visitors Center offers a bookstore and tickets for various guided tours.

Like Bentonville, Gettysburg is an horror that should not be forgotten. Not to hold onto old wounds, but as Lincoln advised in his address, to learn from them so the future does not repeat itself, as--sadly--it so often does.

Gettysburg

Lincoln's Gettysburg Address: (emphasis mine)

Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth, upon this continent, a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.

Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or any nation so conceived, and so dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battle-field of that war. We have come to dedicate a portion of that field, as a final resting-place for those who here gave their lives, that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper that we should do this.

But, in a larger sense, we can not dedicate, we can not consecrate – we can not hallow – this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it far above our poor power to add or detract. The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here.

It is for us, the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here, have, thus far, so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us – that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they here gave the last full measure of devotion – that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain – that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom – and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth.

Cape Fear River Trail

A few weeks ago, we joined a friend for a short (three miles, by our estimation) stroll along the Cape Fear River Trail in Fayetteville, NC. I mentioned this destination in a report on our visit to Clark Park--the southern terminus of this urban outing, and while we'd hiked those forest-type trails along the Cape Fear, we'd yet to explore the paved portion that extended north.

There are two entrances to this trail: one at the Jordan Soccer Complex off Treetop Dr (so says the brochure) and the other at Clark Park off Sherman Dr. Since we were familiar with the latter, we parked in the gravel parking lot at the end of Sherman and walked across the railroad tracks to the Nature Center at Clark Park to use the restroom before we began the hike, and to take another look at the waterfall behind the Center:

Unfortunately, we're not permitted to hike into the ravine to take pictures or to stand near the falls to show scale. But it drops a good thirty or more feet, and besides providing that lovely waterfall sound, it has, growing around it, good company, which tickled the mountain part of our heart:

Mountain Laurel

Fully refreshed, we walked back to the parking lot and entered the trailhead nearly hidden in the trees, and began our walk along the Cape Fear River Trail.

We walked over a boardwalk and along a wide, paved path for a quarter mile or so, then--strangely--had to turn right and walk on the grassy sides of Eastwood Ave until it dead-ended just up the road. We then turned left onto the main artery of the trail.

From this point, you can walk, jog, or bike the four mile trail that cuts through tall trees alongside the Cape Fear River. We crossed two bridges on our short hike, keeping track of our distance with numbers blazed on the path in blue triangles. Further up the road, beyond the point we turned around, is a covered bridge and trestle boardwalk. A good excuse for a return visit.

Water stations are placed along the trail and are periodically checked. During our hike, we stopped to chat with the man filling them that day. We also had a nice conversation with one of the police officers who patrol the trail.

The Cape Fear River Trail is one of several trails organizers hope will eventually stretch from the Florida Keys to Maine. Yes, an Urban AT!

The trail closes at dusk. For more information, including a map and a "Before You Go" list, go to www.fcpr.us/river_trail.php

"But What Is There To Do Around Here?" A Carolinas Overview

My husband and I gaped when the NC native asked the question I placed in the title of this post. Okay, so we have an unusually high interest in the Carolinas for plain ol' residents, but this gal lives on the edge of the Albemarle Sound, just an hour from Roanoke Island and the Outer Banks, and about an hour from Pettigrew State Park and Phelps Lake. How could she miss those things?

So I decided to do a quick overview of the Carolinas in the event someone finds their way to this blog harboring the same question.

DISCLAIMER: Please use this as a guide. Always, always do your own research before going to a destination, including checking for safety issues.

Note: while some of these destinations may offer one or more of the following activities, I didn't target recreation such as antiquing, biking, birding, boating (including kayak and canoeing), camping, fishing, golfing, horseback riding, hunting, mining for gems, sports, and white water rafting. Nor did I provide information on the dozens of festivals held around the states celebrating everything from bluegrass to seafood. Why? A) This post would be so long you'd never read the entire thing, and B) We've yet to indulge in all these activities. If we live here for the rest of our lives, we won't have time to do them all.

There seriously is that much to do. I'm sure to miss something, so check out my label list, my Carolina Travel Guides post, my Links to Carolina Destinations page, and VisitNC.com for more.

So, as of this writing, here's a few things I found to do:

North Carolina:

Aquariums

• North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher, Pine Knoll Shores, and Roanoke Island.

Hiking

There are far too many trails to list here. NC offers easy hikes on the flatlands, strenuous mountain hikes, hikes to view solitary mountain vistas, waterfall hikes, wildflower hikes, hikes I refuse to take because they're too strenuous, and more, including a Mountain to the Sea Trail and the AT. I'm constantly learning about trails from blogs I read, and from fellow CA members' trip reports (Jack and Andy, there's a place called Daffodil Flats, and you have to do what to get there???") Check out my Carolina Travel Guides post for more information, though I need to find a good resource to cover the extensive trail system in the far western portion of the state.

And dear readers, please beware while on the trail. I don't want to beat this to death, but I've posted several warnings begging people to be careful while in the great outdoors. Be prepared, and hike smart.

National Forests

From east to west:

• Croatan
• Uhwarries
• Pisgah
• Nantahala, though don't ask me to pronounce it. I can't.

What's the big whoo about national forests? They offer a lot of outdoor recreation. They're mighty pretty, too. Just wear orange during hunting season.

National Parks

To begin with...

• A portion of the Appalachian Trail
• The Blue Ridge Parkway (didn't know it was a national park, did you)
• Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout National Seashores
• Great Smoky Mountains

Check out the NPS's NC page for more.

National Wildlife Refuges

Outer Banks

• Currituck
• Mackay Island
• Pea Island

Albemarle-Pamlico Peninsula

• Alligator River
• Pocosin Lakes
• Mattamuskeet
• Swan Quarter

Coastal Plains

• Great Dismal Swamp
• Cedar Island
• Roanoke River

Piedmont

• Pee Dee

State Parks

NC has around forty State Parks (I didn't see the new Grandfather Mountain State Park listed on the site.) To find them on a map, check out the state's Park Site.

And because I'm not sure where to put it, Dupont State Forest near Flat Rock and Brevard.

Zoos

• North Carolina Zoo in Asheboro.
• While I'm not sure if it's considered to be an official zoo, Sylvan Heights Waterfowl Park in Scotland Neck.

Other

- Arboretums
- Battlefields
- Beaches. Lots and lots of beaches
- Biltmore House
- Botanical Gardens
- Carriage tours of historical cities
- Historical sites including plantations
- Lighthouses
- Museums
- Tours of historic towns


South Carolina:

Aquariums

• South Carolina Aquarium in Charleston
• Ripley's Aquarium in Myrtle Beach
• Cypress Gardens in Moncks Corner also houses an aquarium

Hiking

Pretty much the same as what I said for NC. Oconee County has a lot of trails, but you'll find trails throughout the state, including longer systems such as the Foothills Trail, and the Palmetto Trail, which, as I understand it, is still under construction.

National Forests

• Francis Marion National Forest
• Sumpter National Forest
• Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly sure the Nantahala Forest bleeds into South Carolina from the north

National Parks

Besides Congaree National Swamp, I wasn't sure about others, so I checked the National Park Site. From it, I see the following are national monument or historic sites:

• Fort Moultrie and Fort Sumpter
• Charles Pinckney and Ninety Six (historic sites)
• Kings Mountain Military Park and Cowpens Battlefield
• And one I've never heard of, but it looks interesting, Overmountain Victory Historic Trail, which extends into NC, VA and TN. Cool.

National Wildlife Refuges

• ACE Basin
• Cape Romain
• Carolina Sandhills
• Pinckney Island
• Santee
• Savannah
• Tybee (according to NPWRC)
• Waccamaw

State Parks

In the WYFF interview, I said there are forty-five state parks and natural areas in SC. As it turns out, I was incorrect. There are forty-six. Check the map on the South Carolina Parks site to find one near you.

Zoos

• Greenville Zoo, downtown Greenville
• Riverbanks Zoo in Columbia
• Brookgreen Gardens in Murrells Inlet also houses a small zoo

Other

- Architecture tours
- Beaches. Lots of beaches
- Brookgreen Gardens in Murrells Inlet
- Carriage rides of historic towns
- Cypress Gardens in Moncks Corner
- Francis Beidler Forest
- Historic sites
- Historic towns (Abbeville, Columbia, Charleston, etc)
- Lighthouses
- Museums
- Plantations (including Boone Hall and Magnolia Plantation)
- Towns we tend to avoid because of crowds (Myrtle Beach, Hilton Head)
- Towns we love to visit because they're great (Greenville, Charleston, Beaufort, Abbeville, Edisto, Columbia, Murrells Inlet, and more)

That should be enough to get you started. Again, please use this and all my posts as a guide. I can only share what we see and experience at a destination at the time of our visit. Research all destinations before you go.

Copyright 2009. All Rights Reserved. Do not distribute or use without express permission.

Part II of the WYFF Sound Off South Interview

Click here for Part I

And the answers I wanted to give. As you can see, I'm better with a pen:

What are your top three destinations in NC?

1. Anything Blue Ridge Parkway. We've driven the entire road.

2. Pisgah National Forest

3. We haven't decided on a coastal favorite yet; we're still learning our way around. So far, it's between Lake Mattamuskeet and New Bern.

However, we haven't explored the Piedmont yet, though after researching a few potential destinations, I've stopped referring to it as the land between me and the mountains.

What would you say is a rare jewel in the Carolinas?

I automatically pictured the swamp at Cypress Gardens, the marshes at Cape Romain, and the haunting forest of Congaree, but then remembered the view from the end of Table Rock's Summit Trail, and Pearson Falls in Saluda. [And I failed to mention Pretty Place and places along the Outer Banks.]

However, we've yet to see spider lilies blanketing parts of Landsford Canal State Park, to stroll the pristine shores of Bulls Island, see the view from Jumping Off Rock, watch snow geese swirl over the pocosin lake at sunrise, or witness the wonder of sea turtles hatching before they make their way into the silvery ocean. So I think the best answer is the Carolinas themselves, since they're home to all of these.

Is there anything else you'd like to add?

As often as I can, I include warnings about dangers, both hidden and visible, one may encounter. We're so accustomed to walking around city streets and inside buildings, expecting care has been taken to ensure our safety. But as I've mentioned in several posts, nature doesn't care about liability, and when people steps in its boundaries, they do so at their own risk. Having learned the hard way, we tell people to watch out for snakes and other critters--including bears. To watch where they walk (rocks, holes and tree roots often litter trails), to make sure they fill out hiker registration forms available at many trailheads, and tell someone where they're going and what time they should return home. Take plenty of water, and wear appropriate clothing. I can't tell you how many people we've seen hiking Table Rock with purses and sandals. Heed warnings listed on websites or posted at the destination. Use common sense.

Above all, don't play near the edge of cliffs or on wet rocks around waterfalls. Have fun, but be careful. We want people to enjoy the Carolinas, but we want them to go home safely so they can return again.

----------------------

Thanks for sharing this event with me. In my mind, it isn't about us and our talent or work, it's about showcasing the wonders of the Carolinas, which we hope to continually explore, and to share with you.

Carolina Towns and Trails Featured on WYFF's Morning News

Exciting news! Last weekend, WYFF Channel 4 in Greenville, SC featured your humble blog on their Sound Off South segment of the morning news. I traveled to the glorious South Carolina Upstate for the interview, and after a ride down a portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway, followed by a somewhat sleepless night, I met Kelly Coakley at WYFF's studios.


Part I of the interview is below. I'll post Part II when it's available. I'm told I presented a calm demeanor, but in reality, I was nervous. Consequently, I forgot to mention a few things I'd hope to present. So below the clip are the answers I gave in the pre-interview. Hopefully, I'll get the information across one way or the other.

And the answers I'd hoped to give:

How did you pick the topic and name for your blog?

The topic flowed naturally from our adventures. In the spring of 2006, after two years of exploring SC and western NC, we joined a local hiking group thinking we'd seen pretty much all there was to see in the area. In addition to teaching us we had much to learn about the Carolinas, they introduced me to a creature called the trip report. I wrote several for the group after I joined, and wanted to share them with family members as well, so I started a blog and named it "Where the Buffaloe Roam".

A year later, the Fish & Bird Curator at Cypress Gardens left a comment on my post about that Moncks Corner attraction, which shocked me. I installed a counter and discovered more people than I'd imagined were accessing my posts. That taught me people were searching for information on Carolina destinations, and I had to do a better job presenting our experiences, which entailed including more relevant facts about those destination, and spending less time focusing on us. NCwaterfall.com's Rich Stevenson is a member of my hiking group. I'd accessed his site on numerous occasions before hikes, so I had a good idea of where to begin.

After shifting and improving the focus of the posts, I redecorated the site and included pictures to give visitors a visual portrait as well as a written one. The name change came last. Carolina Trails (which is part of the blog's address) was not only taken, it didn't fit the scope of my content. After brainstorming a bit, I worked out the new name, Carolina Towns and Trails.

How do you decide where to visit?

We have a general list of places we want to visit, but no set plan to get there. Often, we get in the car and one of us asks, "Where to?" Sometimes we haven't figured out the answer until we're well on our way. Other times, we'll have something in mind but will change our plan after pulling out of the driveway. I can't recommend doing that. But then again, it attests to the fact there are numerous destinations to choose from in the Carolinas.

What are your top three destinations in SC?

Off the top of my head, in SC:

1. Charleston, because there's so much to do in that city, and because of the proximity to other Lowcountry destinations. From there, we'll pop over to Edisto Beach, Beaufort, Mt. Pleasant, Summerville, Sullivan's Island and more.

2. Murrells Inlet. We love it. Love the restaurants, the Veterans Pier, the Marshwalk, Brookgreen Gardens and now, Huntington Beach State Park. We learn more about it every time we go. It's also close to Pawleys Island, Georgetown, Cape Romain, and a stash of yellow fringed orchids we like to visit.

3. The Upstate. We lived in this area for four years and felt very much at home. Downtown Greenville is a gem. We often drove down Main Street, then dined, and followed that up with a stroll along Falls Park. We love the mountains and hiking trails nearby as well. When family or friends stopped by for a visit, we usually took them to Table Rock Mountain and then up to Bald Rock and Caesars Head before heading to our favorite NC destinations...

(To Be Continued)

A Few From the Parkway

I traveled to the South Carolina Upstate today for reasons I'll soon announce, and I took advantage of the trip to check out one of our favorite spots--the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Originally, I'd hoped to visit Mt Mitchell to see the newly constructed observation tower. As it turns out, today was the official opening for the long awaited structure. But members of my hiking group informed me a section of the Parkway south of Mt Mitchell to just north of Asheville is closed. Sure, I could have followed detour directions posted on the NPS's Parkway page, but with the longer trip and thunderboomers in the immediate forecast, I decided to wait until my husband and I could travel together--in clear weather.

But I did take America's Favorite Drive from Asheville to the Cold Mountain Overlook, where I cut down Hwy 276. After the rain, the air is clear and fresh, and wispy clouds flit through the mountain peaks. I took a few photos. Unfortunately, I neglected to reset the white balance after a wedding last week, so they're a bit overexposed. But you'll get the picture.


Wispy clouds hover over peaks shortly after a rain:

Rhododendrons frame Looking Glass Rock:

Close up of Looking Glass Rock

It's spring, and the Parkway is waking from its winter slumber. Be still my Carolina heart.

Morehead City, NC

We recently went down east (which may actually be part of Downeast, I'm still working that out) to Morehead City. We've passed through the city on numerous occasions in the past. Fleeting impressions gleaned from the car as we traveled to Beaufort or other places along the Crystal Coast told me it seemed like a nice place. Clean, modern, a port city with massive boat facilities, it looked interesting, so of course we had to check it out.

I brought along The Natural Traveler and Coastal North Carolina, both of which usually provide some direction about activities at a destination. Well...not this time. I learned a bit about the history (Union Forces occupied the city after Fort Macon fell) but that was about it.

So it may surprise you to learn we had a nice time.

We decided to start with lunch. Our thinking, beyond filling our stomachs, was that we'd double check the books and chat with anyone willing to talk about the town while we tasted local fare. We do this often, and to a great degree, the folks are friendly and more than willing to chat.

On the recommendation of The Natural Traveler, we chose the Sanitary Fish Market and Restaurant. The sign for this establishment is visible from the road, and in the past, we snickered at the name as we drove by. But the book used the phrases "clean", "fame", and "seafood", so we went.

I have to warn you, I accidentally left our camera at home, so I had to take pictures with my cell phone.

Opened in 1938, the restaurant sits on the waterfront overlooking Bogue Sound (if I'm reading it correctly, my Gazetteer indicates it's Money Island Bay.) Bits of framed history paper the walls, and we took in what we could as we followed the hostess over the glistening planked floor to a seat beside the window. Yes!

As the book indicated we would, we enjoyed a good meal for a good price, though because I can't eat fried foods, I ordered grilled chicken. Either the owner reads this blog and recognized us, or he firmly believes in providing customers with a quality experience--I believe the latter--because he stated such in a conversation we overheard.

You can bet we'll stop here more often.

Like most things in Morehead City, the restaurant overlooks the water. One can view it while dining, or while strolling along the boardwalk we spotted behind the eatery:

As I've mentioned in the past, it's often difficult to get a pulse on the local culture during an initial scouting trip. As I once told NC native and poet, Julie Buffaloe Yoder, until we're familiar with an area, I can "get the basic recipe, but I lack the secret ingredients that make the dish savory". Julie's poetry gives me a deep, vivid look into the soul of many Downeasterners, so I turned to another native skilled with a pen for insight into Morehead City. After sharing a bit about the history, Sarah Salter told me:

The Morehead culture is one of hard work, dedication, deep love and loyalty. Those folks are the salt of the earth. Literally. They have salt water in their veins. A lot of that is reflected in their language, their laughter, and their zest for life.

She went on to tell of the transformation from a predominantly fishing village, to one heavily reliant on tourism. No surprise there, since the entire NC coast is a favorite tourist destination. Nevertheless, fish and water are still the lifeblood of this town. In addition to serving as a state port, sport fishing and boating are popular activities. Their annual seafood festival is quite popular, and along the paved waterfront is a marina where one can charter a boat to fish or take a day cruise:

The waterfront also has a nice selection of shops, including at least one bookstore. If you haven't noticed, we love bookstores. Local shops are the best because they tend to carry regional books not available at chain stores; items one wouldn't know existed to search for on Amazon. I've picked up half a bookshelf worth of publications during our trips, and on this outing, I found Island Born and Bred: A Collection of Harkers Island Food, Fun, Fact and Fiction. I may toss the recipes (I so don't cook) but I'll definitely keep the pages of hand drawn maps, recollections, poems, and information provided by Harkers Island Natives. I'd love to quote a few lines from a page I randomly chose while typing this, but I best get permission first. No sense being a copyright hound only to break the law myself.

In short, Morehead City is a great place to stop if you're in, or passing through the area, especially since it's conveniently located near Bogue Banks and Beaufort. We'll definitely go back to check out that half-day cruise. We've yet to explore the Carolina waterways, and it's time to rectify that mistake. And if my husband can find the tangle of fishing poles I stored somewhere so we can do some decent fishing, we'll run down to Morehead City to see what options are available there.

Until then, for more information on Morehead City, go to www.downtownmoreheadcity.com/

For more information on the good restaurant with the funny name, go to www.sanitaryfishmarket.com/

A Disappointment

A few months ago, I announced Our State Magazine had used my "Why We Love North Carolina" blurb in their February issue, and that they accidentally misattributed the piece to a *sigh* Floridian.

Before that issue hit the shelves, someone from the editorial department called to tell me a correction would be printed in the April issue. April came, and so did the outstanding magazine, which contained just about everything but a correction. Ouch. I called Our State (for they'd left their phone number on my answering machine) and was told they'd look into it.

The newest issue recently appeared, but failed to include a correction. This was getting embarrassing, for I'd shared the news of the published blurb with family, friends, my writing group, my hiking group, my Facebook network, (I may have Twittered it as well) and anyone who happened on my blog post. So I called the editorial department again, and was basically told because it's now May, and because they're working on the July issue, it's too late to run the correction. But they'll look into it.

Ouch.

Obviously I'm disappointed. Will that affect my support of Our State? Oh my, have you see the magazine? It not only covers NC destinations, but each issue generally includes a restaurant review and Tar Heel stories. Among other things, we plan to visit a pound cake company in Benson, and a German restaurant in Sanford based on articles I read in the magazine. And it includes a ton of fabulous photos.

I don't agree with the editorial department's decision not to run a correction when I was told they would, but Our State is a fantastic publication, and--like my blog, which is free and has all articles available in a single click (see label list. I'm laughing here, really)--it's most helpful to newcomers.

So, despite the fact someone else can lay claim to my entry, I'm reprinting my blurb here. It's simple, but I systematically worked from the mountains to the sea, and included several aspects you'll recognize from this blog: natural communities, wildflowers, and "endangered lives", aka, NC's sea turtles:

Jagged mountains scoring blue skies
Water falling gracefully over tall cliffs
Fringed orchids near Elisha's Peak
A lazy day on the Parkway
Long tendrils of blackwater flowing past
longleaf pine savannas
Pretty Edenton sitting primly on the bay
Snow geese rising with the dawn
on quiet pocosins
Silent (lighthouse) sentinels guarding
endangered lives and watery graves

I don't recall including the word lighthouse in that line, but I jotted down the entry in a matter of minutes and sent it, so it's possible. Regardless, these are things we've learned to appreciate about North Carolina. I'm sure we'll find more as we continue to explore the state.